How to Frame an Exterior Door Rough Opening
While framing an exterior door rough opening can appear complicated, it is actually a relatively straightforward and satisfying project appropriate for do-it-yourself types with basic woodworking skills and tools. The trick to a successful exterior door frame is making sure that the rough opening is the proper size, that the framing boards are all level and that the corners are square. This means that with a little care and patience, anyone can frame a rough opening for an exterior door with complete confidence---and outstanding results. Does this Spark an idea?
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Things You'll Need
- Exterior door (to measure)
- Tape measure
- Circular saw
- 2x4 lumber
- 2x6 or larger lumber (if necessary)
- 1/2-inch plywood (if necessary)
- Hammer or nail gun
- 10d framing nails
- Square
- Level
Instructions
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1
Carefully measure the exterior door you will install (or reinstall, if you plan to reuse an existing door). Add an inch to each side, and mark this width on the sole plate (the bottom board) of your exterior wall. Mark the sole plate again with spaces for a pair of 2x4s (each 1.5 inches in width) on either side of the doorway.
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2
Measure and cut two 2x4s to fit between the wall plates (the horizontal boards at the top and bottom of the wall frame). Place these "king" studs into the outermost spaces you marked in step 1, check their alignment with a level, and then nail them diagonally (toenail them) to the wall plates.
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3
Measure and cut two 2x4s to the height of the new door, plus an inch to allow for shimming during installation. If you are framing in a new doorway and the sole plate is still in place within the rough opening, subtract 1.5 inches frrm your height, because you will cut out a portion of the sole plate later, allowing the door to extend all the way to the floor. Place these shorter "trimmer" studs into the innermost spaces you marked in step 1, and nail them to your king studs.
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4
For load-bearing walls, create a door header by cutting two pieces of 2x6 or larger lumber (based on local building codes and the size of your doorway) to the width of the door, and then gluing or screwing them to a sheet of 1/2-inch plywood sandwiched in between. For walls that are not load-bearing, you can simply use a 2x4 (or two, if you want to stack them for additional strength). Set your header on the trimmer studs and nail it to them, and to the king studs.
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5
Cut one or more 2x4s to fit between the header and the wall's top plate. Space these "cripple" studs evenly between the king studs, and then nail them into place.
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Tips & Warnings
Always measure twice before cutting, test-fit each piece of lumber and trim as needed and use a square and level to verify placement and alignment before nailing anything into place.
