How to Identify a Silver Plate
Collectors interested in silver and silver-plate may find inexpensive items to start their collections at flea markets, on eBay.com, or at the local junk shop. Silver items display beautifully and some have utility. There are differences between plated and solid silver objects in terms of value, durability, and maintenance. It's a good idea to develop the ability to discern between plated and solid silver pieces. Does this Spark an idea?
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Instructions
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Research to find particular marks; purchase a book on silver hallmarks or head to the library. "English Silver Hallmarks," by Judith Bannister or "Old Silver and Old Sheffield Plate," by Howard Pitchie Okie are both good places to start. Marked with a succession of four to five tiny hallmarks, English silver can be identified when you are familiar with these impressions. The Lion Passant: a lion erect on his hind legs with his right front paw raised is a common quality mark. Other marks include; the mark of origin, maker's mark, a date letter, standard mark, and sometimes a commemorative mark or the face of the monarch. This is a brief description of the many silver marks found on older pieces.
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Search for indications of electroplating. Developed in the mid 1800s, Electroplating is a process that binds a thin layer of silver to a base metal. Although there are sometimes no marks to indicate electroplating, an impression of the letters EPNS (Electro-Plated Nickel Silver) indicates that an item is plated. Electroplated silver items made by superior silversmiths are in demand and can be expensive. Consult a reputable dealer, particularly if an investment is involved. Electro-plated pieces are seamless. Older plating produced items with a seam. This is sometimes a way to identify plate pieces. French old plate of lesser quality will have a reddish glow; because the plate is thin. These pieces are not as collectible as Old Sheffield Plate. Be aware that the mark 'Sheffield Plate" indicates electroplating. It is not a mark of Old Sheffield Plate ware.
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Observe the color of the piece's oxidation. All that's silver tarnishes; as does all that's silver-plate. However, the color of the oxidation may give a hint as to whether an item is plated. Pieces that tarnish with a blue tint, reds, or other colors are probably silver-plated. If your silver tray is darkening evenly, with a light brown or blackish hue, it may be sterling silver.
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Determine if the piece is Old Sheffield plate, a collectible silver-plate. Manufactured for about 100 years starting in the mid-1700s, Old Sheffield Plate was made by fusing a layer of silver on to a layer of copper. Discovered in 1742, the method allowed for the fabrication of pieces as beautiful as solid silver items at far lower cost. The problem with Sheffield Plate is that the silver wears away to reveal the underlying copper. The marking of Old Sheffield Plate was illegal in 1773, to protect the public from being deceived into believing it was solid silver. At a later period, a crown mark was used on Old Sheffield Plate to guarantee quality. In the early 1800s a few producers imprinted the words, 'Best Sheffield Heavy Silver Plating' on their products.
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Rub your hands together. Sterling is warm to the touch; if a piece is held and it warms up quickly, this may be an indication that it is sterling. Sterling is .925 parts silver with a .075 additive (usually copper). United States sterling manufactured after mid century 1800s will have a sterling mark. It may be the word 'sterling.' More commonly pieces are marked .925; some items show the fraction 925/1000. Items without this mark are likely not sterling.
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Carry a magnet to the flea market. Testing with a magnet will at least eliminate iron and steel. The magnet will be mildly drawn to nickel plated items. Nickel is often plated before plating with silver, gold, or rhodium.
Another test for silver is to scratch the item in an inconspicuous area and put a drop of nitric acid on it. Acid test kits can be purchased on-line or at an area jeweler. Filing the piece will penetrate plating. When a drop of nitric acid is placed on silver-plated, brass, nickel-silver or alloy, it will turn green. Sterling silver turns a creamy color.
A magnifying glass may reveal if a piece is plated. Plating will almost always be depleted in some area! Also pure silver has a richer hue than nickel silver.
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Tips & Warnings
Years of polishing can rub out some silver marks.
Acid tests will damage items, take good care when employing this method.
Some makers marks have been forged, the only way to be certain about a piece is to consult a reputable dealer.
