How to Choose Size & Type of Industrial Sewing Needles
Each part of a sewing machine needle has s specific purpose. Choosing the right one depends on knowing each one and how they vary, and which is made for each type of fabric you might want to sew.
Instructions
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Know your machine. The type of needle you need partly depends on your machine. The shank end of the needle (the end opposite the point) is sized and shaped to fit into the needle bar of a sewing machine. Consult the manufacturer's website to get specific information, or compare the shank end of a needle you are currently using to any you plan to purchase to make sure they are the same.
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Consider your fabric. The size of a sewing machine needle refers to a measurement of the diameter of the blade of the needle. The blade is the main, middle part of the needle, between the shank and the point. Generally, larger numbers are thicker needles meant for more heavy-duty fabric. Consult a sizing chart. American sizes start at size ssix and go up, while Metric or European sizes start at 50. Lightweight fabric calls for sizes between 6/50 and 11/75. Medium weight is from 12/80 to 18/110. Heavy starts at 19/120 and extra heavy is 25/200 and above.
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Gauge your thread thickness. The size of the needle's eye should be roughly twice as large as the diameter of the thread. If you need to use very thick thread, you may need to pick a larger needle than you normally would for the thickness of your fabric.
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Understand needle points. Universal points are used for most fabrics, but silk and microfiber require special sharp points sometimes called microtex. Knit fabrics call for a slightly rounded point called a ball point. There are other types of points and special shapes for specialty fabric; check with your supplier if you have special needs.
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Test sew using a small scrap of extra fabric before you start your project if you are unsure of the correct size needle to use. Observe the stitches and the way the machine behaves and you will know if things are working correctly or not.
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Tips & Warnings
Industrial sewing does not always mean the fabric is heavy. But if you are dealing with heavy weight fabric, be aware that some machines are not meant for heavy weight fabrics and thicker needle sizes. Partly, it depends on the strength of the components and the motor, but the size of the needle plate and the mechanism beneath it also needs to be adequate to handle larger needles.
