How to Restore Wooden Oyster Boats
Wooden oyster boats are subject to many stresses and activities that can accelerate wear on the vessel. Wooden boats in general take a good deal of maintenance to stay in seaworthy condition. Wood rot, caulk shrinkage and electrolysis eaten nails are the bane of all wooden boats. The added weight of the oystering rig, coupled with the stress of heaving the over-300-pound dredge plus another 200 to 300 pounds of catch can quickly wear out the boat and rigging.
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Things You'll Need
- Scraper
- Pressure washer
- Dental pick set
- Cotton caulking
- Caulking hammer
- Caulking iron
- Killz exterior paint
- Detail brush
- Polyurethane caulk (3M 5200)
- Caulk gun
- Claw hammer
- Nail puller
- Bottom paint
- Paintbrush and roller set
- Welding machine
- Welders tools
- Grinder
Instructions
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Restoring the Hull
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1
Haul the boat out of the water and block it up on a firm surface. Scrape and pressure wash all marine growth from the bottom of the hull. Inspect the hull, inside and out, for signs of leakage due to poor caulking and butt-blocks. Check the zincs for erosion and replace them if necessary.
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2
Inspect the planking and replace any planks that are damaged or rotten. Dig any poor caulking out of the joints with a dental pick. Replace the bad caulking with fresh cotton caulking. Drive the caulking into the joints using a caulking iron and caulking hammer. Paint the seams with a coat of Killz exterior paint and a detail brush. Allow the paint to dry then cap the seams with a good polyurethane caulk and caulk gun.
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3
Inspect the butt-block nails. Pull a few nails from each side of the boat with a puller and hammer and look for signs of electrolysis on the nails. Replace all of the nails if any of them look eaten or eroded. Check for "iron sick" holes in the butt-blocks. Iron sick holes will have a black area surrounding the nail holes. This indicates a mineral transfer between the nails and the wood. Replace the butt-blocks and use fresh marine grade ring-shank nails to fasten them. Paint the bottom with a marine grade anti-fouling paint. Do not paint the zincs.
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4
Check the boats running lights and other electrical systems. All lights should work, to include sidelights, sternlight, masthead light and fishing light (green on top of the mast). Ensure that the lights and VHF radio(s) have their own DC circuit and breaker separate from the other systems on the boat.
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5
Check the propeller (wheel) for damage and pitting. Remove the wheel and take it to a wheel shop to be faired (smoothed) and balanced. Inspect the wheel for electrolysis. Zincs may be added to the drive shaft to protect the wheel from electrolysis. Replace the flax in the stuffing boxes on the driveshaft and rudderpost. Dig the old flax out with a dental pick and restuff the boxes with fresh flax.
Restoring the Rig
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6
Inspect all of the welds on the rigging. Grind away any weak or broken welds and reweld with a 100 percent penetration weld wherever possible. Check all blocks and pulleys for wear and grease them well wherever possible.
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7
Check the operation of the deck winch. Ensure that the stop or locking mechanism works freely and easily. Grease any fittings on the winch with a grease gun. Check the hydraulic fluid level and condition and replace if it looks or smells burnt or has water mixed into it. Check the thickness of the friction material on the winch and replace if it is worn or damaged.
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8
Inspect the dredge and tow chain for wear. These components are in contact with the oyster reef and are subject to accelerated wear. Tighten all shackles and connectors and replace them of they are damaged or distorted. Ensure that the dredge bag or basket is on good shape with no holes larger than about two inches present. Tie or weld the bag or basket, respectively, until all such holes are reduced to two inches or less.
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1
Tips & Warnings
Use a working boatyard to haul and store the boat while you are working on it. Most yards will have knowledgeable personnel on hand to help with any questions or problems you may have.
