How to Reduce Bulk in a Seam
Whenever you sew two or more pieces of fabric together, you face problems with bulk. A bulky seam can make any garment fit wrong and look unprofessional. The problem is worse with fabrics that are bulky to begin with (wools, denims, etc.) or when you are sewing together more than two pieces of fabric, especially with linings and facings. A few simple techniques can help you manage bulk in a project, but you will never eliminate the problem.
Instructions
-
Grading
-
1
This technique is often used when seam allowances fall or rest on each other, as in hems and enclosed seams (collars, waistbands, facings). Cut the piece of fabric closest to the body the shortest.
-
2
Cut the next piece of fabric's seam allowance wider, and the next wider than that one, and so on.
-
-
3
You should have a stair-stepped or layered seam allowance, with the seam allowances getting progressively wider. Leave enough seam allowance on the narrowest part so the stitching doesn't rip out.
Trimming
-
4
Test this technique on a piece of scrap before applying it to any sheer garment. This technique is often used instead of layering on sheer fabrics.
-
5
Cut the seam allowances on both sides of your seam the same width. This removes the bulk of the fabric.
-
6
Trim the seam allowance on any curved seam to about 1/8 of an inch from the stitching to prevent puckering and pulling. Don't cut on, or too close to, your stitching.
Notching
-
7
With the tips of a sharp pair of scissors, cut V-shaped notches out of the seam allowance on the outside edges of curved seams.
-
8
Cut to the stitching, but not through it.
-
9
Don't cut more notches than are necessary for the seam to lie flat when turned right-side out.
-
10
Cut to a point the ends of seams that are joined and crossed by another seam.
-
11
Corners, such as on collars, need to be notched to make the corner turn and lie flat. Cut across the point, then diagonally from each side. Cut to but not through the stitching.
Clipping
-
12
Use the tips of a pair of sharp scissors to snip a curved seam allowance in several places.
-
13
Snip the two seam allowances separately.
-
14
Snip to but not through the stitching.
Understitching
-
15
Use this method on enclosed seams. Clip, notch or layer the seam as you decide it should be.
-
16
Pull the seam allowances away from the garment.
-
17
Stitch a regular line of machine stitching 1/8 inch away from the seam ditch, from the right side of the facing through all the seam allowances.
-
1
Tips & Warnings
Find illustrations of all these techniques at http://www.ca.uky.edu/HES/fcs/FACTSHTS/CT-MMB-031.pdf.
