How to Install Kitchen Floor Linoleum & Tile

New flooring can turn an old or drab room into a showpiece. Both linoleum and tile are two attractive and cost-effective options for new floors. Linoleum has the benefit of being quite inexpensive and durable, while tile provides a room with sophistication and high-end looks. Both are time-consuming to apply and require significant preparation and work to get everything ready for the floor, but once complete there is a certain satisfaction in a job well done.

Things You'll Need

• Newspaper
• Roll linoleum
• Tape
• Utility knife
• Floor adhesive
• Notched trowel
• Floor roller
• Chalk line
• Tape measure
• Pencil
• Tile
• Spacers
• Rags
• Tile saw
• Grout
• Putty knife
• Damp sponge
• Grout sealer

Instructions

Linoleum

1. Remove all furniture or appliances, and any old flooring. Pull nails or staples that remain in the floor and clean out as much debris as possible. Remove molding or thresholds as needed. Verify all boards are tight together and relatively smooth.

2. Lay newspaper out on the floor, tight to the walls, and then tape it together to form one large piece. Verify that it covers the entire area the linoleum is to be applied. Carefully roll up the newspaper and take it to a large workplace where there is room to work.

3. Unroll the linoleum, and lay the newspaper template onto the plastic as straight as possible. With strong tape, affix the template to the laminate. Use a sharp utility knife and a straight edge to slowly cut the linoleum around the template.

4. Return to the room, place the lead edge tight to the wall and unroll a few feet. Lift the edge again and lay it back to expose the floor underneath. Spread floor adhesive with a notched trowel a few feet out along the entire wall. Lay the material back onto the floor against the wall. Use a floor roller to get it smooth and remove trapped air.

5. Spread more adhesive and unroll the laminate over it while standing on the complete portion of laminate. Keep it tight and square to the room. When complete, roll the entire floor a last time to guarantee it's smooth. Stay off the floor for approximately 12 hours for the adhesive to set properly.

Tile

1. Measure one wall and mark the floor at the exact center. Repeat this with the opposite wall. Use a chalk line on the floor joining the two points. Repeat the process with the other two walls until there's an exact center point on the floor.

2. Lay out a row of tiles along both guidelines across the room, and place spacers between tiles to get the proper gap. Work with mainly full tiles, and adjust the layout to make this possible.

3. Spread adhesive for the row of tiles adjacent to the guide tiles using a notched trowel. Lay tiles and spacers, keepiing the line straight with the guide row. Press gently on the tiles to settle them into the adhesive. Wipe any that oozes up onto the tiles before it dries, and avoid getting any adhesive on the tile face.

4. Finish all solid tiles, including the first guide rows, and allow the adhesive to set for a short time. Come back and finish the perimeter tile with cut pieces to complete the floor.

5. Mix grout into a thick paste and force it between tiles with a putty knife. Wipe up excess grout from the tiles with a damp sponge. Work in small sections and rinse the sponge often. Allow the grout to cure for a few days before allowing significant traffic on the floor. Apply grout sealer in case of water spills and to protect it from discoloration.

Tips & Warnings

• A rubber mallet may be needed to help press the tiles into the adhesive.

• Heavy fumes often accompany adhesives. Work in a well-ventilated area.

References

• "Flooring: The Essential Source Book for Planning, Selecting And Restoring Floors;" Elizabeth Wilhide; 2005
• "The Flooring Handbook: The Complete Guide to Choosing and Installing Floors;" Dennis Jeffries; 2004