How to Repair Basement Drain Tiles

Damaged basement drain tiles allow leaks and can be dangerous if there are sharp edges. You can remove the cracked tiles and replace them yourself. The most challenging part of the task is finding replacement tiles that match the existing tiles. If you do not have any tiles leftover from the original installation, take the broken tile to a retailer to see if identical tiles are available. If you cannot find an exact match and are not concerned about aesthetics, use tiles that are an imperfect match. Consider using contrasting tiles which will look like an intentional design element.

Things You'll Need

• Rotary cutter with grout bit and attachment or grout saw
• Duct tape
• Fiberboard
• Power drill with masonry-cutting bit or angle grinder with masonry blade
• Hammer
• Chisel
• Two-part epoxy filler
• Putty knife
• Replacement tiles
• Mortar or thinset
• Level
• Flathead screwdriver
• Grout
• Trowel
• Sponge

Instructions

1. Remove the old grout surrounding the tiles you will replace. This will loosen the tiles and prevent damage to surrounding tiles. Use a rotary cutter with a grout bit and attachment or a grout saw. Cut through the full depth of the grout. Also cut through the thinset (the adhesive spread underneath all the tiles) if possible.

2. Break up the damaged tiles. Use a power drill with a masonry-cutting bit to drill holes in each damaged tile, starting at the center of each tile and working outward. This will weaken the tiles, making it easier to remove the pieces. If you have porcelain tiles in your basement drain, a power drill will not work. Use an angle grinder with a masonry-cutting blade instead. Attach pieces of fiberboard over the surrounding tiles with duct tape to protect them as you cut. Cut an "X" through the center of the tile extending to the corners.

3. Remove the tiles. Chip away the tiles with a hammer and chisel. This requires quite a bit of time and effort. Do not try to pry off the tiles, or you may damage the surrounding tiles. Keep breaking up the tiles until the pieces come loose from the mortar or thinset below. Use the hammer and chisel to break up and remove the underlying mortar or thinset. Remove all the adhesive, even if that means damaging the substrate (the surface below the mortar or thinset). If you leave some mortar or thinset behind, the new tiles will not rest in place properly.

4. Patch the substrate, filling in any gouges made while removing the mortar or thinset. Use a putty knife to apply a two-part epoxy filler (Ask your tile supplier to recommend the correct epoxy filler for your project.) to all the gouges and nicks in the substrate.

5. To install the new tiles, spread the same adhesive used for the original tile installation (mortar or thinset) onto the back of the replacement tiles. Place the tiles into position, and press down on the replacement tiles until they are flush with the old tiles. Use a level to gauge if the new tiles are completely flat. Let the adhesive dry overnight.

6. Grout the new tile. Trowel grout around the edges of the new tiles, and press it into place with a wet sponge. Smooth the grout into the grout lines and joints, carrying the new grout over some of the adjacent old grout to make the new grout less obvious.

Tips & Warnings

• Match the new grout to the original color of your old grout. The new grout will darken in time to match the old grout. You can also clean the old grout to match the new grout.

• If excess adhesive oozes out under the sides of the tiles, remove the adhesive with a flathead screwdriver.

References

• "Tiling;" Editors of Sunset Books; 2009