How to Sew a Plus-size Skirt
Sewing your own clothes can expand your wardrobe options, especially if you have a hard time finding clothes that fit just right. When you sew your own clothes you can decide the style, fit and fabric that suit you. Sewing a skirt requires a little sewing knowledge. For simple styles you will need to know how to follow a pattern, sew a seam and finish a hem. If this is your first attempt find a simple pattern without tucks, darts or pleats. For an extra-easy skirt find a pattern that calls for an elastic or drawstring waistband.
Things You'll Need
- Measuring tape (flexible type)
- Pattern
- Fabric
- Thread (bobbin and spool)
- Sewing machine
- Scissors
- Sewing pins
- Elastic or drawstring
Instructions
-
Preparing
-
1
Ask a friend to help you find the most accurate measurements. Use a tailor's tape to take your measurements. This tape is usually flexible plastic and has numbers on both sides. For a skirt you will need to know your hip and waist measurements. Your hip measurement should be the fullest part of your body, usually 7 to 9 inches below your waist. According to the Simplicity website, to find your waistline tie a narrow piece of elastic around your waist and let it drop. It should settle at your waistline. Check out http://www.simplicity.com/t-measure-select.aspx#step1 for a diagram of measurements.
Take all measurements over your regular underwear. The tape should be snug (doesn't drop if you hold it in only one place), but not tight. It should not put a dent in your flesh.
Write these numbers down.
-
2
Take your measurements to a fabric and pattern store. Look through pattern books to find a pattern you like. Some pattern companies, like Burda, have pattern lines especially for plus-size women. Use the size guide on the back of the pattern to figure out what size to make and how much yardage you will need. Most fabric stores have knowledgeable staff to help you figure this out.
-
-
3
Select and buy the fabric and notions required. Patterns list appropriate fabric types and yardages and the necessary buttons, zippers, elastic and linings. Buy thread that matches the fabric. Consider what types and prints of fabric will be flattering to both the pattern type and your body type. Stripes and plaids, silks, satins and any fabric that stretches are difficult to work with. You may want to stick with a cotton fabric if this is your first attempt at sewing a skirt.
Note the fabric content and care instructions on the end of the bolt of fabric. You will need to know this to launder it correctly.
-
4
Prewash the fabric according to the care instructions. This gets rid of any excess dye or chemicals and takes care of any shrinkage that is going to happen. Iron the fabric if it is wrinkled after it is dry. It is important to have a smooth piece of fabric before you cut.
-
5
Read the directions that come with the pattern. It should come with a few pieces of tissue paper, which are the pattern itself, and a plain piece of paper with instructions and possibly diagrams or illustrations printed on it. Read all the way through so you understand how the skirt will go together.
Cutting and Sewing
-
6
Lay the fabric out on a large, flat surface. Most patterns are designed to be laid out on a piece of folded fabric. This is usually folded the long way, or with the bias. The pattern should tell you if you are supposed to do otherwise.
-
7
Cut the pattern pieces apart. Most of the time the pattern pieces are all printed on one or two large pieces of tissue paper. Don't cut them out precisely yet.
The larger pattern pieces may have an arrow down the middle indicating how they are supposed to be cut out. The arrow should run parallel to the bias of the fabric. Cutting it the wrong direction can change the way the finished skirt hangs. -
8
Pin the pattern pieces into place. Use enough pins to hold all parts of the pattern securely.
-
9
Cut around the pattern pieces on the line for the size you need. Most patterns are printed for three different sizes, with three different lines. Cut along the same line all the way around. If the pattern has triangles along the line at different points, cut around them so the triangles stick out from the piece that you've cut out. Don't cut the triangles out of the fabric you will be using to make the skirt. These will be used later to match up parts of the garment.
-
10
Follow the directions to sew the skirt together and finish it. This varies by pattern. You will need a dressmaker's mannequin or a friend to help you hem it evenly. You should be wearing it when someone pins the hem at the height you want it.
-
1
Tips & Warnings
The staff at fabric stores is usually very knowledgeable and willing to help with anything you don't understand. Don't be afraid to ask questions while you are in the store, or after you have started your project. In many cases if you get stuck on a project you can take it to the fabric store and they will try to help you through it.
