How to Install Asphalt Shingles 101

Install asphalt shingles with step by step instructions.

Difficulty:

Moderate

Instructions

Things You'll Need

• Hammer, utility knife, caulk gun, chalk line, ladder, cutting table

1. The first task to any roofing project is to figure out how much material you need. The easiest way to do this is to measure your roof with a tape measure as you read it. Make a diagram of the house roof and write down the measurements. Take the measurements to your local building center and have them estimate the materials for you. This will save you a lot of time. At this point, they will ask you when you want the material delivered. Give yourself 4-5 days if you are doing a tear-off (removing the old shingles) and 2-3 days if you are going over the existing to get the roof preped.

2. 

   Next, we prep the roof. If you are tearing off, nail or staple tarps to the edge of the roof to create a slide for the shingles to go down. Use tarps or plastic at the bottom to keep the shingles off the yard. When you are done ripping shingles off, simply fold up the plastic with the shingles in them and through them away or throw them in the dumpster.

   If you are going over an existing layer, it is time to start to install the ice and water shield and the roofing felt. The ice and water shield goes in the valleys and along the eaves to prevent leakage if ice damming occurs. The bottom has a peal and stick surface that is very sticky. The easiest way to install the ice and water shield is to roll out about 6' of it and tack the upper corner (corner at the edge of the roof). Put only 2 or 3 staples in the top of the 6' section. Repeat this until you have reaching the other edge of the roof and cut the ice and water shield at the end. Peal the bottom piece off the ice and water making sure to allow the material to adhere to the roof deck. Staple the bottom every 6" in a "V" pattern as you go from one end to the other. Then pull the top that is tacked lightly into place back and peal the plastic layer off stapling in a "V" pattern all the way to the other end. If there is a valley, go up the valley at least 12". Repeat this for the rest of the eaves.

   Use galvanized or aluminum flashing in the valleys. The flashing should be at least 12" on each side of the center of the valley. Nail down with roofing nails.

   Now it is time to install the roofing felt. Roll out about 6' and tack the top corner closest to the edge. Use the line on the ice and water shield you installed earlier as a guild. This will also ensure proper overlap. Once aligned tack the felt in place, rolling out 6' sections at a time to keep it straight and minimize bubbles in the material. Always staple in a "V" pattern to prevent bubbles and maintain straightness. Overlap to the next piece to the line 2-3" on the previous piece. Repeat until the entire roof is felted.

   Now that the roof is felted, you can have the delivery truck with the shingles set the shingles on the roof for you an save you a lot of back work form carrying them up the ladder.

3. Notice how the shingles stager backwards. This is why we cut the courses ahead of time.

   Now that you have the roof water resistant, it is time to cut some starter shingles. Start by cutting 6" off one shingle. What is left over is the 2nd shingle of the course. Cut 12" off the next shingle. What is left of that one if the 3rd course. Then cut 18"... you can see the pattern. Make piles in way of courses. This will speed installation up. Repeat this process about 5 or 6 times to couple a good runs going that you can work on without cutting for a while.

4. 

   Now it is time to cut starter strips. Simply take a shingle, flip it on it's top and cut along the line on the back of the shingle. It should be different thickness. Keep all of the top portions. This is what will start the roof.

   Using a ladder line up the starter shingles on the edge of the metal gutter apron (this article assumes all metal edges were kept) and nail the starter into place. Nail above the adhesive strip to prevent possible leaking. Repeat this step along all the eaves of the house.

   Once the starter strips are on, it is time to use the cut pieces from step 3. Start with a full shingle, line up the bottom and nail it down (Please see the diagram below for proper nailing procedure). Install the next shingle that is 6" shorter than the previous on the next course forming a stair step effect. Repeat until you need to add full shingles. Repeat this process all the way to the top of the roof on all sides.

5. 

   When shingling a valley, it is important to make sure that the shingles are not nailed in the valley. Simply overlap shingles from one section of roof over another as seen in the diagram below. Use roofing mastic or roofing cement to adhere the portion of the shingles in the valley. Use a chalk line to snap a line down the valley on the overlapped shingles, then cut along that line to make the roof valley uniform. Using a hoof blade in your utility knife will prevent cutting shingles you do not wish to cut.

6. 

   It is a good feeling when all you have to install is the cap shingles. These are just the 3 tab shingles folded and cut where the tabs are. Make them yourself by folding and cutting along the tab folds.

   To install, start at the edge of the roof and nail on each side of the shingle where it will be exposed and nail on each side where it will be covered. The rest of the cap shingles will only be nailed where they overlap. Use roofing cement to cover the exposed nail heads.

   You are now done with your roof! Be proud of yourself for a job well done!

Tips & Warnings

• There may be times when the roof meets a sidewall. If this is the case, remember that all flashing HAS TO GO UNDER THE SIDING AND THE SIDEWALL BUILDING PAPER!!! If you fail to do this, you may have problems with leakage.

• If you are not comfortable with heights, have health problems, or are physically weak, you should not attempt this project. Always consult a professional before any projects are attempted.