How to Sew Polar Fleece
There are trademarked brands, such as Polarfleece®, but in day-to-day use "polar fleece" refers to a wide variety of microfiber, microfleece or fleece fabrics made from polyethylene terephthalate (PET) and other petroleum-based synthetic materials. For home sewing, fleece fabrics come in varied thicknesses or weights, from "micro" or very thin to very thick and bulky. Fleece is ideal if you're learning to sew, because it's strong and doesn't easily tear or unravel, so there is no need for the extra step of finishing raw edges of hems and seams. Fleece is well suited for outdoor garments---even pet clothing---and athletic wear. It has some of wool's better qualities---it's very warm, soft and breathable---but weighs very little and is easy to wash and dry.
Things You'll Need
- Sewing machine
- Medium sewing machine needles (extras)
- Long straight pins with beaded heads
- Sewing shears
- Sewing pattern
- Fleece fabric
- Matching 100% polyester thread
Instructions
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1
Choose a suitable pattern, looking for simple lines and loose fit, and buy the fabric you need. Estimate the amount based on "with nap" layouts, because fleece is considered a pile fabric---meaning that you need to lay out and cut each garment piece with the top facing the same direction to avoid off-color appearance in the final garment because of the effects of different light shading.
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2
Prewash your fabric only if its quality is uncertain. Top-of-the-line fabrics such as Polarfleece® won't shrink or bleed color when washed (except for Polartec® Power Stretch, which will shrink and should be prewashed).
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3
Fold fabric as directed by pattern instructions, right sides together. (If there's any question, determine the right side---the side that will be the outside of the garment---by gently tugging along the fabric's selvage, which will roll to the right side.) Carefully layout and pin pattern pieces. Cut with care.
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Prepare your sewing machine. A medium needle, one with Universal Point size of 11/75 or 12/80, suits most types of fleece, though you may need a larger needle for very thick fabric. Set your stitch length in the medium to long range---many fleece aficionados prefer a zigzag stitch---and select a loose balance tension.
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5
Verify your stitch settings by experimenting on scraps of the fleece. Stitch carefully, quite slowly at first, because stitching is hard to remove. Avoid stretching the fabric when you sew around necklines, armholes and other curves.
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Hem by folding fabric to the wrong side and baste with pins then stitch ¼ inch (6mm) from the cut edge using a straight stitch.
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Add buttons or snaps and decorative trims according to pattern instructions.
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Tips & Warnings
Synthetic fabrics tend to dull sewing needles, so have extra needles on hand and change your machine's needle frequently---even halfway though your project---to avoid damaging the fabric.
Avoid lumpy zippers by stabilizing zipper openings with low-temperature iron-on interfacing applied (wrong side) to both zipper edges before the zipper is added.
Fleece is vulnerable to heat and may scorch if ironed. "Pressing" seams open with your fingers is usually sufficient. Use a pressing cloth, or clean white cotton pillowcase, between the fabric and your iron if pressing is absolutely necessary.
Have fun with trims and special touches. Fleece lends itself to all kinds of easy embellishments, from running stitches with embroidery floss or yarn to very feminine ruching. Appliques, even complex multicolored and multilayer ones, are also fun.
Fleece fabrics are highly flammable, and are unsuitable for sleepwear and robes---especially for children---unless you buy fleece treated with a flame retardant.
Despite its many positive attributes, fleece generates lots of static electricity and attracts lint, dust, and pet hair. High-temperature washing, drying or ironing can also damage it. Lower-quality fleece fabric is likely to pill, so protect your time investment by buying quality fabric.
