How to Apply Plaster Around a Tile Mural

Using plaster as a faux finish for walls can add depth and texture, with a variety of results ranging from smooth and glossy to marbled and rough to aged and distressed. You can use different styles of plaster to embed tile murals (or frame them in your plaster). Either way you go, plaster finishes or backgrounds can enhance the beauty of your tile mural by adding a timeless, classic feel to any design.

Things You'll Need

• Paint roller with 3/4-inch nap
• Roller for special effects (optional)
• Paintbrush
• Roller pan
• Acrylic paint primer
• Plaster powder or pre-mixed, tinted plaster
• Fine-grain sand paper (No. 180 through 320)
• Metal straight trowel or plaster spatula
• Super-fine steel wool
• 2 buckets, one containing clean water
• Stir stick
• Rag
• Drop cloth
• Painters tape
• Protective finish or clear topcoat

Instructions

1. Prepare your surface by sanding off glossy finishes and patching flaws or damaged areas. Apply a coat of flat acrylic paint primer and let it dry four to six hours.

2. Decide how to approach the tile. If you are using a thick, layered plaster method to "embed" the tile mural, install the tile mural first and allow it to dry completely. Once the tile has set, cover just the surface around the edges with painter's tape to avoid applying plaster onto the mural face. Alternatively, you can install the ceramic tile mural over your finished surface.

3. Prepare the plaster mixture according to your desired result by combining your preferred grade powder plaster compound and water in the empty bucket. For thick layers or a rough, distressed finish, use a coarser plaster mixture and less water. For a smooth, glossy finish, use a finer mixture with more water. Mix using a stir stick and add pigment as desired.

4. Apply small amounts of plaster with a metal trowel or spatula. Using an X or other overlaying pattern, spread the plaster across small areas at a time. Keep the trowel or spatula at a 10- to 20-degree angle as you spread the plaster and skim back to smooth the first layer. Use the bucket of water to keep the spatula clean and free of dried plaster.

5. Allow the first layer to dry approximately one to four hours; the surface will be evenly matte and lighter in color. Continue to add layers of plaster using the same technique until you reach your desired effect and depth.

6. Before the final layer of plaster is completely dry, dampen the steel wool pad and burnish (polish) the final layer to your desired sheen using a circular motion to even out the plaster. Skip this step if you want a matte or rough finish.

7. Allow all layers to dry.

8. Apply a clear topcoat or protective finish using the trowel or spatula in the same way as your second layer of plaster. If you want a more polished look, you can burnish the finish as before. Let dry at least one hour. The finish will deepen the colors and protect the plaster from moisture.

Tips & Warnings

• Keep a damp cloth over your bucket of plaster to keep it from drying out as you work with it.

• Use sandpaper or the steel wool on the trowel or spatula to smooth any sharp edges or corners for a smoother look.

• Use a special-effects roller to apply the first layer only and smooth out with a trowel or spatula as you go.

• The more you work with your plaster, the more texture will appear. You can sand off any excess trowel marks if you want a subtler effect.

• Use a drop cloth to protect floors and walls from splatter.

• Always paint in a well-ventilated area to minimize the effects of fumes.

References

• The Art Castle: Los Angeles murals,Faux Finishes, Painting and Wall Murals in LA!