How to Build a Sheep House

Whether you choose to raise sheep for meat, wool or hair, your flock will need a house to protect it from inclement weather. If you are just starting out with three or four sheep and not into breeding them yet, a simple three-sided structure will provide adequate protection in all but the most severe climates as long as you have sufficient acreage for grazing and exercise.

Things You'll Need

  • Post-hole digger
  • Measuring tape
  • 4 treated posts, 8 feet by 4 inches by 4 inches
  • 4 bags regular pre-mixed concrete
  • Level
  • Saw
  • 2 treated joists, 8 feet long by 2 inches by 6 inches
  • Drill
  • Lag bolts
  • 4 pieces of treated lumber, 2 inches by 4 inches by 129 inches
  • 4 sheets of corrugated tin, 2 1/2 feet by 10.75 inches
  • Self-tapping screws
  • Clear silicone caulking
  • 5 sheets of plywood, 4 feet by 8 feet
  • Hammer
  • Nails
  • Paint
  • Paintbrush
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Instructions

  1. Location

    • 1

      Choose an elevated, well-drained site on which to build the sheep house. Make sure it is easily accessible for manure removal.

    • 2

      Plan to position the opening of the three-sided shed away from prevailing winds. Usually this means facing south.

    • 3

      Locate the sheep house where a source of water can be easily installed in or near the building. Electricity is a plus but not necessary for this type of shelter.

    Sinking the Poles

    • 4

      Dig four post holes 30 inches deep in a rectangular configuration 84 inches in width by 129 inches in length.

    • 5

      Sink one treated post in each hole. Mix the concrete as directed on the package. Using one bag per hole, add a few inches to the hole before placing the post, then fill the remainder of the hole. Use a level to make sure all posts are properly spaced and square. Also make sure they are all perfectly vertical and turned to face the right direction.

    • 6

      Let the concrete dry completely. This may take up to two days depending on the weather and climate.

    • 7

      Cut the front posts down to 60 inches and the back posts to 50 inches.

    Roof

    • 8

      Measure and trim the joists to fit widthwise between the front and back supports, one on either end. Pre-drill the holes and attach the joists with lag bolts.

    • 9

      Cut a notch in the outside facing side of each 4-inch-by-4-inch treated post to hold a 2-inch-by-4-inch-by-129-inch roof support. Pre-drill the holes and attach one to the front and one to the back.

    • 10

      Lay out the other two pieces of 2-by-4-by-129 treated lumber between the two supports with 24 inches between each piece so the screws and corrugation in the tin you will be placing will line up. Angle the pieces slightly for a tighter fit.

    • 11

      Attach the sheets of corrugated tin from front to back with self-tapping screws. Let the sheet hang over 3 inches on all sides and overlap each sheet 3 inches when placing each piece of tin. Seal each screw with a dab of clear silicone caulking.

    Walls

    • 12

      Nail plywood sheets to the outside out the posts to form the side walls. You will not need to cut the sheets used for the sides, though there will be a slight overhang in the front. The plywood should not rest directly on the ground--leave a small gap. There will also be a space at the top near the roof. This is important for ventilation.

    • 13

      Cut and nail the remaining sheets of plywood to the shed to form the back wall. Again, remember to leave a space so the plywood does not touch the ground.

    • 14

      Paint the plywood so it stands up better to the weather and lasts longer. It will be easy to replace as needed, but you should make it last as long as possible to cut costs.

Tips & Warnings

  • If you live in a climate with heavy snow, make the pitch of the roof steeper so the snow slides off. Consider adding two additional support posts to hold the weight of heavy snow.

  • Rams love to butt anything that bounces back. If you are raising rams, the plywood walls will take a beating. Attach scrap lumber to form butt boards about 18 to 20 inches above the floor of the shelter to help avoid damage to the plywood.

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References

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