How to Stamp a Concrete Sidewalk

Sidewalks let people and pets walk from point to point without stepping in dirt or mud. They are functional and durable, but normally quite bland and do little to enhance the visual appeal of a property. Today's architects, designers, building contractors, and homeowners are turning boring into beautiful with the installation of artistic and creatively designed stamped-concrete sidewalks. Does this Spark an idea?

Things You'll Need

  • Gloves
  • Eye protection
  • Dust mask
  • Trowel
  • Concrete
  • Concrete forms
  • Float (wood or magnesium)
  • Concrete color (powdered or liquid)
  • Concrete hardeners
  • Concrete release powder
  • Concrete sealant
  • Rubber mallet or tamper
  • Latex mats (concrete stamps)
  • Leaf blower
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Instructions

    • 1

      Consult a professional concrete installer to determine the cost, material, and equipment required for your project. Many homeowners elect to have the sidewalk professionally installed and concrete poured, then color, stamp, and seal of the sidewalk themselves. If you have experience installing concrete, you can save money and do the entire job yourself.

    • 2

      Plan your sidewalk. Concrete sidewalks are durable and can last for upwards of 50 years. The key element in sidewalk longevity is the quality of the construction. A concrete sidewalk can fail if poor quality materials are used and correct design and construction practices aren't followed. Make sure you order concrete with a compressive strength of 3.500 pounds per square inch. Be sure to specify that the concrete will be stamped. This will ensure that larger rock is screened and the concrete mixture is thinner, as rock chips in the concrete can interfere with the crispness of the design impression.

    • 3

      Use a chalk line, a tape measure, laser level, and steel pins or wood stakes to lay out your sidewalk design. Consider drainage and low spots where water can collect and plan to have a slight pitch in the sidewalk to assure water runoff. Avoid placing your sidewalk too close to established trees. As the tree roots grow and mature, they can crack the sidewalk. Trees should be located three to four feet away from the sidewalk. Deep-rooted trees, such as maple or oak, will cause fewer problems than shallow-rooted trees, such as poplar, spruce, or aspen. Choose a stamping pattern that does not have deep depressions that can collect water or catch a heel and cause a fall.

    • 4

      Excavate the sidewalk layout to a depth of eight inches. If the project is small, the soil can be removed by hand with a pick, shovel, and wheelbarrow. Larger projects may require the use of heavy equipment, such as a backhoe. Plan to install a minimum four-inch layer of concrete over four inches of crushed and compacted rock. Contact a rock quarry or masonry contractor to determine cost, delivery, and the type of rock suitable to your installation.

    • 5

      Install the concrete forms. Interlocking concrete forms can be rented from concrete contractors or home-building suppliers. Spread the rock evenly on the excavated area. Compacted the rock with a compacting vibrating plate attached to a tractor or backhoe. It is very important that the rock be evenly compacted. Loose or thin areas in the rock will lead to settling and cracks in the concrete. Lay rebar (steel reinforcement rods) both horizontally and vertically over the entire sidewalk. (Consult a concrete contractor to purchase rebar and to determine how much is required for the job.)

    • 6

      Pour the concrete. Arrange to have additional help on the day of the pour. Pouring concrete is labor-intensive as it must be flattened and leveled with a concrete float and edged with a hand trowel. After the concrete has been poured and leveled, broadcast two to three layers of colored concrete hardener on the fresh concrete. Use a hand trowel or walking concrete float to smooth and spread the colored hardeners. (Powdered and liquid color agents are available. Carefully follow the directions from the manufacturer printed on the package label. Some coloring agents can be added to the concrete before it's poured.)

    • 7

      Broadcast a generous layer of concrete release powder over the entire sidewalk. The release powder (also called antiquing powder) prevents the latex mats or stamps from sticking to the concrete. Release powder is available in a rainbow of colors that can add another dimension of depth and color to the stamping design.

    • 8

      Begin at the top of the sidewalk and carefully position the stamping mat. (These rubber latex mats are available in a wide assortment of designs and sizes and can be purchased or rented.) Use a rubber mallet to firmly and evenly tap the entire surface of the stamp into the freshly poured concrete. Lift the mat and accurately align it next to the first stamping impression. Repeat the tapping procedure and continue in this manner until the entire sidewalk has been stamped.

    • 9

      Allow the concrete to dry for a minimum of 24 hours. Use a leaf blower to remove the excess release powder that adheres to the concrete. At this point, additional layers of colored hardener powders can be applied until the desired intensity and tone are achieved. Allow the concrete to dry between layers. (Excess color can be removed with a gentle spray of water from a garden hose.)

    • 10

      After the concrete is thoroughly dry, seal the sidewalk with multiple coats of concrete sealer, applied following manufacturer's directions. Sealing is especially important in locations subject to freezing and thawing.

Tips & Warnings

  • Always use eye protection, gloves, and a dust mask when working with colored concrete powders or chemical agents that can irritate skin.

  • Concrete shrinks as it dries, creating stress on the concrete. To prevent cracking, control joints should be cut into the concrete at spacings of about four feet transversely across the length of the sidewalk. Cut to a depth of about one-quarter the sidewalk thickness. Incorporate these joints into stamped designs to help disguise their appearance. The control joints are normally cut the day after the concrete is poured. Use a gas-powered concrete saw that can be rented at building-supply stores or equipment-rental locations.

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