How to Visit the Volcanic Lake, Nong Fa, in Laos
Stories of failed treks and unqualified guides to Nong Fa, the volcanic lake in southeastern Laos' Dong Amphan National Park, are plentiful. It's less common to hear about a successful trip. Nevertheless, visiting what is rumored in the pages of Lonely Planet to be the holy grail of Southeast Asia travel doesn't have to be a fantasy.
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Things You'll Need
- Attapeu Province tourist permit
- Bottled water
- Cash (in Kip)
- Motorbike (optional)
- Spare gasoline (if on motorbike)
- Good hiking boots (especially during the rainy season)
Instructions
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Visit the Attapeu Province tourist authority in Attapeu city. One of the English-speaking workers can help you get the proper permit required to visit Nong Fa for about 20,000 kip ($2.50) as of November 2009.
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Make your way by bus or motorbike to the village of Xesou, 100 kilometers east of Attapeu city along highway 18B toward Vietnam.
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Turn left and head north on the wide dirt road just after the milestone marking 12 km to Vietnam. If you are on motorbike, you can re-fuel at the small shop opposite the highway from the road north to Nong Fa.
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Cross two rivers that will be difficult with a bike. As of November 2009, the roads over these rivers were not complete. The first, the Xe Sou river, is 8 km from Xesou village. At both, locals running rafts can escort you across for about 10,000 to 30,000 kip.
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At km 40, there is a mining village---take the fork to the left here. The guards will not let you enter the mining area and are not likely to be very friendly.
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At km 55, you will pass a large pink hotellike government outpost. Stop there to announce your presence, present your permit and possibly arrange a bed for the night for 30,000 kip.
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Drive or hike the last five kilometers to Nong Fa.
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Tips & Warnings
The shop in Xesou, just opposite the road leading to Nong Fa, also rents out a very basic room. Prices are widely negotiable, but the Vietnamese family running the shop probably will go as low as 30,000 kip a night.
Strap some extra fuel to the back of your bike. It's a long ride and there aren't many places to refuel.
About halfway, there is a village in a green valley with a river running through the middle. The chief of this village, though he may seem unfriendly at first, will provide a place for you to stay if needed (especially if you are on foot). Don't expect a free night; 20,000 kip is appropriate, and he also accepts headache medicine or mosquito repellant---both hard to obtain while the road remains incomplete.
Shortly after the gate to the mining area at km 40, you will pass an outpost of Vietnamese-run markets, where you can buy supplies and possibly petrol.
During the rainy season the road to Nong Fa can be extremely difficult to travel, with mud ruts 2 feet deep and high water in the rivers. If you make the trip during this time, be prepared for a couple days of travel.
Foreigners rarely visit the villages along the route from Xesou to Nong Fa, especially those closer to the lake. Be courteous and aware of customs; for example, you should approach only elderly men for assistance or directions.
Bring plenty to drink; even at the shops halfway between Xesou and Nong Fa, drinking water is a rare luxury. Expect to be served tea even if you are lucky enough to find someone with boiled water.
Be sure to take cash, the closest place to get any is Attapeu city or Vietnam.
The head of the government outpost 8 kilometers from Nong Fa appears to be bribe happy, and if you're without a guide, you may have to hire one of his men to escort you to the lake.
If you don't buy your permit at the tourist office in Attapeu city, it could cost you as much as 150,000 kip at the government post near the lake.
You can also choose to pass the government outpost unannounced, but you do so at the risk of having trouble with the Nong Fa local authorities.
There is no camping at Nong Fa. If you camp there, you may be fined.
