How to Make Nokomis Perfume
Created in 1997 by the perfume house Coty to evoke a mythical Native American moon goddess, Nokomis perfume still boasts legions of fans despite the fact that it is no longer in production. With a little experimenting, the famous blend can be created at home by adding essential and fragrance oils to a perfume alcohol base. The all-natural version of two of Nokomis' fragrance notes, jasmine and musk, are very expensive. Fortunately, affordable synthetic versions are available.
Things You'll Need
- 190 proof ethyl alcohol
- Musk fragrance oil
- Sandalwood fragrance or essential oil
- Vetiver fragrance or essential oil
- Jasmine fragrance or essential oil
- Lavender fragrance or essential oil (optional)
- Bergamot fragrance or essential oil (optional)
- Glass jar or beaker and lid
- Droppers
- Rubbing alcohol
- Perfume bottle with cork or stopper
Instructions
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Gather your ingredients and equipment. There are pricey and budget versions of both the perfume base and the individual scents. Master perfumer Mandy Aftel uses 190-proof ethyl alcohol and all natural essential oils, but some makers prefer synthetic fragrance oils and a vodka base.
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Do the math. Sixty drops of scent, total, should be added to 15 ml of your alcohol base, with a recommended 24 drops base note, and 18 drops each of the middle and top notes.
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Experiment with your base blend by first using an equal blend of 8 drops each musk, sandalwood and vetiver, adjusting later to emphasize one or two of the elements. Add the drops to a perfume blotter or even an old wool scarf. Once you hit on your perfect base blend, move on to the perfume construction.
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Add 15 ml of perfume alcohol to a beaker or glass jar.
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Using a dropper, add 24 drops of musk, sandalwood and vetiver to the perfume alcohol.
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Dip the dropper into a nearby container of rubbing alcohol to clean it and prepare it for a different essential oil.
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Next, add your jasmine, for a total of 18 drops. This blend will be the "heart note," or middle chord.
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Clean your dropper with rubbing alcohol once more.
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Add 18 drops of a "top note" scent to finish the fragrance. None of the scents listed for Nokomis reveals a top note chord, so use your imagination. Aftel notes that lavender goes well with vetiver and sandalwood bases. If you prefer a citrus top note, bergamot remains a classic choice.
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Cover and set aside the perfume for a few weeks to give the scents a chance to merge and blend.
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Put the perfume on your skin and inhale. Does it evoke Nokomis to you? If one note dominates uncomfortably, add a few more drops of the other essences and again give the blend a chance to age. Aftel suggests adding rose to a blend which seems too sharp, or pepper to a perfume whose top note doesn't seem to come through.
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Once you've perfected the blend, bottle it and it store a dark place. Make sure to keep a record of the exact blend that you use, in case you want to make it again.
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Tips & Warnings
True musk oil is almost impossible to find these days; buy a synthetic version. For jasmine, your options include investing in the expensive essential oil of jasmine, buying all-natural "poor man's jasmine"---ylang ylang essential oil---or purchasing the artificial version of either.
Try looking for a vintage Nokomis bottle online or in an antique store. Not only will you add an authentic look to your homemade tribute, but the original scent will probably still be lingering in the bottle.