How to Ride the Swell
The first documented account of riding the swell on a surfboard was in Hawaii in 1779, according to Mahalo Surfboards. The word "swell" means the height of the rolling waves that are above the base of the ocean water. For example, a 5-foot swell is how tall a wave is. Surfing the swell is extremely popular, and if you are a dedicated surfer, you will be willing to travel the earth or wake up at 4 a.m. to ride the perfect swell. Even a beginner can learn to ride the swell with a few basic surfing tips.
- Difficulty:
- Moderately Challenging
Instructions
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1
Buy or rent the right surfboard for a beginner. Choose a long board that is about 9 to 10 feet in length. This length of board will give you stability on small slow waves.
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Make sure your board has a leash. The leash is attached to your ankle and to the back of the surfboard so that the board does not go all the way to the shore when you fall off.
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3
Use your beach towel to practice paddling out into the waves and coming to a quick standing position on the board. Lie on your stomach and pretend you are using your hands to paddle out into the waves. When you are ready to stand, place your hands on the sides of the towel/board and jump up quickly to your feet, with your strong foot in back. Stay in a crouched position while you get your balance and then slowly straighten up a little bit.
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4
Find a beach where the waves are white water and small, but long in terms of the time they take to roll up to the beach. In other words, the wave will give you a long enough ride so that you will be able to try to stand up.
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Go to the beach. Attach your leash to your ankle. Carry the board under one arm and walk out into the water as far as you can. Lay the board on top of the water and lie down on top of it. Start paddling out into the waves. When you are out deep enough to get a decent little ride, turn your board around and point the nose toward the shore. Look over your shoulder behind you, and start paddling when you see a wave coming toward you. Once you are riding the swell, put your hands on the sides of the board and stand up as you practiced.
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6
Find the "sweet spot" on the surfboard. The front of the board is called the nose and the back of the board is called the tail. The sweet spot on the surfboard is the spot where you're not too far forward and not too far back; if you're too far forward, you will slide off the front. You will feel the most balanced in the sweet spot on your board; you may not find it the first time you attempt to surf, but with practice you will find it naturally.
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Keep practicing your surfing; eventually you will gain more balance and feel more secure. You will be riding the swell consistently before you know it.
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