How to Make a 4-Foot Mini Half Pipe
Most skateboarders prefer to build mini half pipes because larger ones are more difficult to skate and require more skill to master. Mini half pipes also require less materials, less space and labor to build and therefor cost less. Building a half pipe can be a daunting task, especially for someone with no carpentry or construction experience. With the right plans, tools, materials and site, the endeavor behind building a half pipe will pale in comparison to the fun, exercise and memories that can be had on the finished ramp.
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Things You'll Need
- 42 2x6s, 8 feet long
- 5 2x4s, 8 feet long
- 4 2x8s, 8 feet long
- 12 1x6s, 8 feet long
- 4 4x4s, 8 feet long
- 2 3/4-inch plywood in 4'x8' sheets
- 12 3/8-inch plywood in 4'x8' sheets
- 2 metal pipes, 1.5 inches in diameter
- Roll of tar paper (optional)
- 8 sheets of Skatelite, 4'x8' or 1/4-inch Masonite in 4'x8' sheets
- 4 concrete markers
- 5-6 lbs wood screws
- Shovel
- Hammer
- Measuring tape
- String
- Chalk or pencil
- Power drill with screwdriver bit
- Jig saw
- Radial saw
Instructions
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Find a good spot to build the half pipe. The ideal site for a half pipe is on level ground, in a dry, well-lit area. The footprint of the finished half pipe is 200 feet. Once the ramp is built, it's impossible to move, so this will be the ramp's permanent site. The half pipe is essentially divided into three parts: the flat bottom (the flat middle section) and the two curved sides.
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Start by building the flat bottom of the ramp. Place pieces of concrete at the four corners of the flat bottom and make sure they are level. Cut four pieces of 2x6s to create a square frame. Cut 2x6s and place them every eight inches on center to support the frame. Make sure the four corners of the flat bottom are resting on four level pieces of concrete.
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3
Draw the sides onto one sheet of 3/4" plywood using a piece of string anchored to a screw as a compass. The curve on the sides, called transitions, should be a continuous circle from the flat to the top of the ramp. This is true for whatever size of half pipe you are constructing. Cut the sides and attach them to the flat bottom.
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Frame the sides with 2x6s that are 18 inches on center following the curve up to the top. Cut out the small notch at the top for the coping--the metal pipe that lines the seam where the transition and platform meet. Frame out boxes for the platforms on each side, making sure they are level and square.
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Add the surfaces to the ramp and the platforms. Cut sheets of plywood to surface the flat and the curved transitions. Use wood screws to anchor the plywood sheets to the 2x6 framing. Add another layer of plywood to the flat bottom and transitions; make sure to lay them in the opposite direction as the previous layers. Avoid lining up seams from the two layers. Cut off the plywood at the notch for the coping.
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Some plans call for a layer of tar paper before adding the final layer of waterproof Skatelite on the bottom and the flat. Follow your set of plans to finish by surfacing the bottom and transitions with a layer of Skatelite.
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Now you're ready to surface the tops of the platforms. Some plans call for surfacing with 2x4s, others with plywood. Using 2x4s makes the surface much stronger and more durable. Add railings to the back and sides of the platform to make them a safer place to wait and watch when not skateboarding.
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Finally, cut the metal pipe to fit the width of your half pipe, and place it in the cut-out notch where the platform and the transition meet. Use a metal drill bit to punch four holes in the pipe. Use screws to anchor the pipe to the 2x6 framing the notch. Use a broom to clear any debris that may have accumulated on the half pipe.
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Tips & Warnings
Using a t-square will help keep the ramp's joints square.
Some Home Owners Associations ban the construction of skateboard ramps.
