How to Build a Deer Proof Fence for a Garden
Gardens provide fresh produce and a sense of connectivity to the earth. Unfortunately, of all the pests to which a garden is vulnerable, deer are doubly destructive: They can trample plants as well as eat them. According to Leonard Perry, Ph.D., an extension professor with the University of Vermont, deer can jump fences 8 feet tall. Therefore, an 8-foot tall fence with at least one strand of higher deterrent wire needs to be erected around gardens to make them deer proof. Does this Spark an idea?
Things You'll Need
- 4 stakes or other markers
- Measuring tape
- Post-hole digger
- 4 treated wood posts, 16-foot by 5-inch top diameter
- 5 bags quick-setting cement
- 6-foot iron post
- 16 10-foot T posts
- 12-foot folding ladder
- T post driver
- Assistant
- 2 rolls 200-foot-by-48-inch nonclimb horse fencing
- 1 pound fencing staples
- Hammer
- Ax handle
- Wire stretcher
- 150 T post clips
- 4-by-4-foot panel gate with hinges
- Drill with bit
- Screws
- Roll barbless wire
Instructions
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1
Mark four corners at 50 feet each using stakes or other markers and the measuring tape. Move the markers inward 3 inches so that your wire will have slack.
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2
Dig identical holes about 4 feet deep with the post hole digger. Place the 16-foot treated wood posts in the holes. Pour in the quick-set concrete, and allow it to set.
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3
Mark a point 4 feet from the post where you will want a gate. Dig a 2-foot hole in line with the opposing corner post. Place the 6-foot iron post in the new hole, fill the hole with concrete and allow the concrete to set.
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4
Drive the 10-foot T posts into the ground every 10 feet between each corner post. Use the ladder to climb up and pound them in with the T post driver. Have an assistant hold the T posts on the ground to help ensure they stay vertical.
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5
Attach the end of the first roll of 48-inch nonclimb horse fencing to the lower half of the gate corner post by hammering it in with fencing staples. Unroll all 200 feet around the perimeter. Thread the ax handle through one end of the wire fencing and attach the wire stretcher. Gently stretch the fencing until it is taut. Take care not to stretch too tightly, as this will cause the posts to shift.
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6
Use about 50 T post clips to attach the fencing to all T posts at the top, bottom, and center of the fencing. Hammer fencing staples through the wire into the wood posts to secure the fencing.
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7
Cut the fencing at the iron post, leaving about 6 inches to wrap around the post. This will leave an opening for the gate.
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Attach the second wire fencing roll in same way above the first roll. Gently stretch it taut and again use about 50 T post clips to attach the fencing to the T posts. Hammer fencing staples into the corner posts.
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9
Use the remaining T post clips to tightly bind both fences together, using about 12 clips per side.
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10
Attach the 4-foot panel gate at the opening. Drill holes in the corner post, screw in the hinges and mount the gate.
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11
Wrap the end of the barbless wire around the top of the first corner post to serve as deterrent wire. Position it about 1 foot higher than the top row of fencing, fixing it with staples. String the wire around the perimeter and then gently tighten it until taut. Corner posts will be more prone to shifting from the top, so stretch the wire gently. Hammer staples over the wire into the other three posts.
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Tips & Warnings
For a fence smaller than 50 by 50 feet, follow the same steps but reduce materials amounts as needed. Continue with no more than 10-foot spacing between posts for stability.
