How to Build Frameless Cabinets

Modern cabinets come in two major forms. Face frame cabinets have been the architectural standard since built-in cabinetry took the place of furniture pieces. European or frameless cabinets have been popular in other parts of the world for decades and have made a major splash on the American market in the past twenty years. Their main use until recently has been as industrial storage in medical and office facilities. In the past few years their quicker, less expensive construction and concealed hardware have made them a popular option in modern kitchens.

Things You'll Need

• Tape measure
• Circular saw
• 3/4 inch plywood or MDF
• 1/4 inch plywood
• Drill and bits
• Pin nailer and compressor or hammer and finish nails
• Wood glue
• Screws

Instructions

Cutting the Pieces

1. Cut two bulkheads -- side panels -- from ¾ inch plywood, MDF or chipboard. Standard lowers are 30 inches high and 22 inches deep. Cut a dado groove ¾ inch from the back, ¼ inch wide and 3/8 inch deep to hold the back. Make one right and one left; dadoes go to the inside. Typically these bulkheads are pre-drilled to accept European style hinges and drawer hardware. Get specifications from the hardware manufacturer on drilling pattern.

2. Cut 1 bottom piece from the same ¾ inch material as the bulkheads to the width of the unit you want and 1 inch shallower than the bulkheads. Cut two top cleats from the ¾ material that are 4 inches wide, the same length as the width of the bottom. Cut two back cleats the same size. If you have a pocket screw jig, drill two pocket screw holes in each end of the cleats for installation.

3. Cut a back from the ¼ inch material that is ¾ inch narrower than the bottom piece and top cleats and the same height as the bulkheads.

   Cut 2 base cleats from the ¾ material 20 inches long by 3 inches wide. Cut 4 cleats 3 inches wide and the same width as the bottom. These are your base pieces.

Assembling Frameless Cabinets

1. Stand one bulkhead on its long edge on a flat, stable work surface with the dadoed edge up. Run a bead of glue down one side edge of the bottom piece. Stand the bottom piece at a right angle to the bulkhead with the bottom side of the bottom piece flush with the bottom edge of the bulkhead, keeping the dado to the inside of the bulkhead. Nail the bulkhead to the bottom piece, repeat with other bulkhead on the opposite side.

2. Attach one top cleat flush with the front and top of the cabinet. Glue the ends and nail from the outside of the bulkheads or use pocket screws to attach.

3. Slide the back into the dado until it is flush at the top. Add the two back cleats from the rear flat against the back. Glue the ends and nail through the bulkheads or attach with pocket screws. Add the remaining top cleat flush with the top of the cabinet with the back edge pressed against the cabinet back, then fasten with nails or pocket screws.

4. Assemble 2 Ls from the 4 shorter base pieces by nailing them together along their long edges. These are the ends of your base. Stand the 20 inch cleats on edge. Attach the 2 Ls to the ends of the 20 inch cleats to form a 3 inch high rectangle tray with the 2 additional cleats to the inside, flush with the top. This is your base. Turn the cabinet face up and place the base flush with the bulkheads and back, two inches from the front of the cabinet. Attach with screws. Add a door and shelves or drawers for more customized storage.

References

• Building Frameless Kitchen Cabinets