How to Shave With a Straight Rasor
Every president up to FDR probably shaved with a straight razor. Civil War soldiers kept straight razors in their kits, sailors in their trunks. The straight razor makes a hobby out of shaving, and a bit of a thrill ride. Still, it is tricky to get a good shave with a straight razor. No matter how well it is honed, it is several times thicker than the paper-thin blades of a disposable razor. Does this Spark an idea?
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Things You'll Need
- A sharp, quality straight razor
- Leather strop
- Shaving soap
- Badger-hair brush
- Styptic pencil or alum block
- Moisturizing aftershave
Instructions
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Fill your shaving mug with hot water. The water should be near boiling, or as hot as your tap will provide. Allow the soap to soften for 30 seconds.
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While your shaving soap softens, strop your razor. Even if the razor is sharp, stropping gives it a temporary and sharper edge, which you will need for a good shave.
If your strop has a canvas side and a leather side, strop it 25 times rapidly in both directions on the canvas side. This heats up the blade. Then strop it 25 times, slowly and firmly, in both directions on the leather side. When stropping, lead with the thick side of the blade.
If your strop does not have a canvas side, fill your sink with hot water and let the razor sit in it for 30 seconds.
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Shave with your blade at a 30-degree angle and a light touch. Shave with the grain first, downward, beginning at one side-burn. Shaving against the grain first can cause ingrown hairs.
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Rinse between every few strokes, and wipe the blade on a towel.
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Move along your jaw line, shaving your chin. Then switch sides and shave the other side of your face.
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Shave your moustache area carefully. Pull your nose up and stretch your lip downward to tighten the flesh. Shave with the end of the blade farthest from the handle, which is typically the sharpest. Use short, light strokes.
Shave the area between your lower lip and chin in the same way.
Raise your chin and shave your neck. Use long, light strokes.
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Look for hairs that the blade has missed. Use the blade in the reverse direction, upward, in order to remove them.
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Treat any nicks---these will occur while you are learning---with a styptic pencil or alum block.
Apply a moisturizing aftershave cream, not an alcohol-based aftershave. Your face will feel scraped and dry while you are learning to use the straight razor. Alcohol-based aftershaves make your face dry. And they're painful.
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Tips & Warnings
Avoid applying pressure on your razor. This will not give you a better shave. But it will skin you.
Test your razor, dry, on your forearm or leg. If your razor is sharp enough, it will shave the area bald.
Practice on a peach. This will train you in the light touch.
It takes time and practice to get a good everyday shave with a straight razor. You may need to follow up with a disposable blade.
A straight razor works best when cutting longer hair, when working on anything greater than a two-day growth.
A barber typically has several straight razors and rotates them, which allows them to stay sharper.
