How to Put in an Invisible Zipper
A properly applied invisible zipper gives a garment a smooth appearance, because no indication is given of how the garment opens and closes. A fabric covering and the position of the zipper teeth create the illusion of the zipper being invisible. A special zipper foot is then used to lay a line of stitching close to the zipper teeth, creating what looks just like every other seam on the garment.
Things You'll Need
- Invisible zipper
- Garment pieces that need zipper
- Thread
- Zipper foot
- Grooved invisible zipper foot
- Sewing machine
- Scissors
- Straight pins
- Iron
- Ironing board
Instructions
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1
Begin with an open seam--no part of the seam that is getting the zipper should be sewn yet. Place the fabric face up on a flat surface.
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2
Place the zipper face up beside the garment edge. Flip the zipper onto the garment keeping the edge of the zipper lined up about 1/8 inch in from the raw edge of the garment. Pin the zipper in place. Open the zipper.
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3
Make sure the grooved invisible zipper foot is on the machine. Use a straight stitch to sew the zipper to the garment. The zipper foot should be right against the rolled edge of the zipper fabric and teeth. Stop sewing when the zipper foot reaches the tab at the end of the zipper. Close the zipper.
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4
Place the other side of the garment face up on a flat surface. Put the piece of the garment with the zipper attached face down on top of the piece without the zipper. Pin the edge of the zipper tape 1/8 inch in from the raw edge. Re-open the zipper.
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5
Sew the second side of the zipper to the second side of the garment, the same way the first side was stitched. Remove the grooved invisible zipper foot and put the regular zipper foot on the sewing machine.
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6
Stitch the ends of the zipper as close as possible to the original zipper seam. When the tab of the zipper is reached, either stop sewing or gently guide the zipper ends out of the way of the seam. You won't want the zipper tape to end up showing on the outside of the seam.
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7
Fold the fabric so the right sides are together. Sew the seam from about 1/4 inch below the end of the zipper tab to the end of the garment. Press the seam open.
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1
Tips & Warnings
The zipper tab, or tab at the end of the zipper, refers to the metal or plastic piece that stops the slider at the end.
When the zipper foot is changed the seam, won't line up perfectly, so join the two seam lines together at a very slight angle and it won't show on the outside of the garment.
Leaving the last 1/2 inch to 1 inch of the zipper unattached is an option preferred by some tailors and seamstresses, but if the seam is at all loose, the ends can slip out and end up looking sloppy.
If the zipper is a replacement zipper instead of part of a new garment, open the seam all the way before beginning.
