How To Frame a Rough Opening for an Entrance Door
Framing a rough opening for an entrance door isn't difficult, but it does require precision and patience. Although the door frame will eventually be hidden from view, ensuring that it is square, level and solidly constructed is the key to an entrance door that works well and closes securely for safety and protection from the weather. With some basic tools, supplies and carpentry skills, you can frame a rough opening for an entrance door with ease and confidence. Does this Spark an idea?
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Things You'll Need
- Exterior door
- Wood:
- • 2 x 4
- • 2 x 6 or larger (optional)
- • 1/2-inch plywood (optional)
- Circular or hand saw
- Hammer
- Framing nails (10d)
- Level
- Square
- Pry bar
- Plumb bob
- Tape measure
- Pencil
Instructions
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1
Take measurements. Measure the entrance door unit, and add an inch to each side and the top to allow for shims and caulk. These are the dimensions of your rough opening. Mark the width on the horizontal 2 x 4 (the sole plate) that forms the bottom of the wall frame, and mark the height on the nearest 2 x 4 studs outside the door frame. Mark two adjacent 1.5-inch spaces on each side of the opening for the studs that will form the sides of the door frame.
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2
Place king studs. Measure the distance between the sole plate and the top plate (the horizontal 2 x 4 topping the wall frame). Cut two 2 x 4 studs to this height, and position these full-size "king" studs in the outermost marks you made on the sole plate. Use a level to ensure they are perfectly vertical, and then toenail (nail diagonally) them to the sole and top plates.
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3
Place trimmer studs. Cut two 2 x 4 studs to the height of your rough opening, place one of these "trimmer" or "jack" studs beside each king stud and nail them to the king studs.
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4
Place header. Prepare the top of your door frame (the "header') by cutting lumber to the width of your door frame. Follow local building codes if applicable, or use a 2 x 4 for non-load-bearing walls, or two pieces of larger lumber (from 2 x 6 to 2 x 12, based on the width of the doorway) with 1/2-inch plywood glued or screwed in between for load-bearing walls. Place the header on top of the trimmer studs, and nail it to the king and trimmer studs.
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5
Place cripple studs. Short 2 x 4s, known as "cripple" studs, go between the header and top plate to help the door frame support the weight of the wall. Cut a 2 x 4 to match the distance between the top plate and header, place it halfway between the two king studs and toenail it to the header and top plate. If desired (recommended for wider doorways), you can use multiple cripple studs placed every 12 to 16 inches.
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Tips & Warnings
A pre-hung door unit can save you time and effort, because the hinges and jambs are already in place.
If existing studs fall within your rough opening, you can remove them completely, or measure carefully and leave a portion at the top to serve as a built-in cripple studs.
At each step, before nailing anything, use a level and square to make sure everything is properly aligned. If necessary, try to shift boards into place using a hammer or pry bar.
When working with an existing load-bearing wall, position a strong temporary support before you remove or replace any studs.
