How to Use Expansion Bolts in Rock

Expansion bolts are bolts that have an outer sleeve that expands when the end of the bolt is turned clockwise. The most easily recognizable use for these bolts is to protect rock climbing routes. Climbers will insert expansion bolts in the rock in areas that could lead to a fall and clip their harnesses into the bolts. Using expansion bolts in rock is not difficult and can be done by anyone, be it the weekend warrior on El Capitan or the gardener in his backyard.

Things You'll Need

• Expansion bolt
• Drill
• Masonry bit
• Crescent wrenches

Instructions

1. Drill a hole slightly larger in diameter than the expansion bolts you have purchased.

2. Slide the expansion sleeve into the hole you drilled and insert the expansion bolt into the sleeve.

3. Use the appropriately sized crescent wrench to turn the expansion bolt head clockwise until the bolt has thoroughly expanded the sleeve enough to secure it in the hole.

Tips & Warnings

• Make sure your drill bit is the same size or just slightly larger than the expansion bolt, not the expansion sleeve. The sleeve expands as the bolt is inserted into it, and thus you do not want too much play in the hole.

References

• Informative Article on Using Expansion Bolts to Protect Climbing Routes

Resources

• More "Traditional" Use for Expansion Bolts