How to Litter Train a Stubborn Ferret

Difficulty: Moderately Challenging

Instructions

Things You'll Need:

Easily-cleaned ferret cage
Ferret-friendly litter pans
Ferret-safe litter
Good cleaning sprays
Safe ferret treats
PATIENCE
DILIGENCE

Step 1

The first task is to get your ferret reliably using the litter pan in his cage, then work on potty training outside it. (If your ferret is already good in the cage, then skip to Step 8.)

Set up your cage to encourage, or, if necessary, force all elimination to happen in the litter box. You can do this several ways.
Step 2

CAGE LAYOUT ONE:
Get a large litter cat pan that fills up one entire end (and two corners) of the cage. Most cages are about two feet deep, and there are many cat litter pans that fit well, such as the 17x22" Jumbo pan sold for $6 at Walmart, etc.

Cut one long side down to about two inches high so that the ferret doesn't have to climb to get in the pan. Position the pan so that it is in the darker end of the cage and clip it to the side if necessary to keep it from moving (spring clamps work great for this, as long as they fit through the bars and you remove any soft rubber).

In the other two corners of the cage place food and water respectively. Use bowls that clamp to the side so that they can't be moved by the ferret. If you use a water bottle, put a bowl under it to create more of an obstacle in the corner.
Step 3

CAGE LAYOUT TWO:
Some REALLY stubborn ferrets will override their natural aversion to eliminating near their food. If this happens then you should clean the accident thoroughly and put fluffy, washable blankets in the other two corners (move the food and water up to a platform or into the middle of the cage). Most ferrets would have to be unwell to relieve themselves on their bed (see warning below for more about ill ferrets).
Step 4

CAGE LAYOUT THREE:
Some ferrets hate to share litter boxes (especially with a sick ferret.) If you have more than one ferret, you might want to get two smaller litter pans instead (small or medium size usually fit well). Just be sure that the ferret can still fit his whole body in the pan, and that tall sides are cut down for easier access.
Step 5

CAGE LAYOUT FOUR - LAST RESORT:
If your ferret STILL goes outside the litter box, consider turning the entire base floor of the cage into a giant litter pan. Remove platforms if they've been using them for toilets and provide only hammocks for sleeping. This will essentially force him to get used to the sensation of standing on litter while eliminating.

If you don't have a deep tray at the bottom of your cage you can make one out of scrap linoleum or coroplast. Cut it to wrap up the sides of the cage three or four inches, and use white duct tape to join the corners together (because some ferrets try to eat glue products).

After a couple of weeks try switching back to Layout Two, then Layout One.
Step 6

FOR ANY LAYOUT:
Fill the pan with about 1.5" of ferret-safe kitty litter. Choose the best odor-controlling (but never odor-masking or perfumed) PLANT-BASED (ie, vegetable, paper, or wood) litter that your budget will allow, and CLEAN IT OFTEN, since ferrets dislike using a smelly litter box. (See link to cat litter reviews below; just remember, NEVER use clay or silicone-based litter with ferrets!) Most people use pellets, but some ferrets dislike walking on them. You may want to try something like Swheat Scoop or World's Best if the pellets aren't going over too well.

Place a "starter poo" into the litter pan, especially if it is brand new litter or a different kind than what your ferret is used to. Keep treats that he LOVES nearby and reward him IMMEDIATELY when you see him use the box. Only allow him to come out for play after he goes, but watch out for fake-outs; ferrets are smart enough to learn to pretend in order to get a treat or play time. Only reward them when they actually PRODUCE!
Step 7

While your ferret is still learning the ropes in his cage, you'll have to limit playtime to shorter, supervised spans outside the cage. Only let him out after he's gone in the box, then watch him like a hawk whenever he's out. If it's been fifteen minutes or you see him start sniffing toward a corner return him to the cage. Wait for him to use the box again, then give him a treat and let him out again. Do this several times a day so that your ferret gets enough exercise and time out of his cage.

This requires PATIENCE and DILIGENCE, but it will pay off in the long run! The fewer accidents you have, the faster the retraining period will go.
Step 8

TRAINING OUTSIDE THE CAGE:
Once your ferret has perfect potty habits in his cage, start carefully expanding his territory. Use the same litter and pans that have been successful in the cage, strategically positioned in ONE room that is especially conducive to litter training. Avoid extra corners, doors, and carpeting if possible. Put a litter box or a bowl of food in every corner.
Step 9

If you have carpeting, place a piece of linoleum or a small washable latex-backed rug under each litter box (Ikea bath mats are a good size and can be cut in half to be even more affordable.) This will allow you to clean up any accidents or keep the area around the litter box clean.
Step 10

If you have a corner where a litter box or small bowl of food won't fit (such as near a door) try using a scent deterrent. You can see an article about how to make a scent deterrent here:

How to Litter Train a Stubborn Ferret

Things You'll Need:

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