Things You'll Need:
- Non-toxic wood
- Non-toxic waterproof glue
- Table saw
- Clamps
- Flat surface
- Wax paper
- Router (optional)
- Protective eyewear
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Step 1
Choose the wood. Make sure the wood is non-toxic. Many exotic woods can cause respiratory ailments if the sawdust is breathed; other woods have toxins within the grain that can be absorbed by foods that are cut on the board. It is also important to use a wood with closed grain--not woods like oak, ash or hickory. Start with a board that is about 1 inch longer and wider than you want your finished board. Maple is a good choice for starters.
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Step 2
Cut the pieces. A simple butcher block cutting board consists of strips of wood each the same length and width. Cut your board square, and then set your table saw at the desired width for each strip. Make sure the blade is set exactly at 90 degrees to the table. Run the board through repeatedly to get the number of strips you need. Remember the saw takes out some wood, so the final board will be slightly more narrow than the original board.
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Step 3
Arrange the pieces. You can flip every other piece to give a contrasting grain pattern. You can also alternate face grain and edge grain for contrast. If you do this, make sure the width of each piece is exactly the same as the thickness. Lay the pieces in the desired order on wax paper on a flat workbench or flat surface like a large glass table.
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Step 4
Glue the pieces. You can roughen the gluing surfaces for better adhesion; use 80-grit sandpaper and be careful not to round the edges. Apply enough glue so that it will ooze out of the joints slightly--it is easier to finish off extra glue than to fill spaces. Avoid Epoxies because they are generally toxic. Water-based glues that dry waterproof are better choices.
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Step 5
Clamp the glued pieces. You need at least two wide-gap clamps--three or four is better. When you clamp the pieces, they may try to buckle or bend up off the flat working surface. Weigh them down with dumbbells or other heavy weights to make sure the board is flat.
Square the ends after you apply two clamps near the ends. As you tighten the clamps, scrape off excess glue as it oozes out. Tighten as much as possible without buckling the strips. Check if it's square again, and apply the other clamps (optional). -
Step 6
Check the board as the glue dries to make sure it has not buckled. The ends of the strips do not have to match perfectly; you'll square the entire board later. See if you can tighten the clamps every 10 or 15 minutes as the glue dries. You want the gaps between the boards as thin as possible.
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Step 7
Unclamp the dried board. Sand or scrape excess glue off the top and bottom. Sand or plane the top and bottom smooth.
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Step 8
Square the board. Using one of the unglued sides for square, trim the ends of the strips on the table saw so they are all the same length and the board is square.
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Step 9
Use a router to put rounded edges on the top and bottom surfaces. A typical bit would be a quarter round shape. You can also make a drainage groove with a half-round bit and an edge guide. You can also use a router to make a handle hole.
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Step 10
Finish the board by sanding up to 160-grit or finer. Air blast or rinse any remaining grit out of the grain. After it has dried for at least 24 hours, apply mineral oil as a finish. Be careful not to use baby oil because it's scented.
