How to Make an 18th Century Woman's Jacket
An 18th century woman's jacket was a popular garment worn for everyday or fancier wear, depending upon social class, fabrics and trims. The jackets of the 18th century were quite tightly fitted and worn over stays. A very full skirt or quilted petticoat was worn with the jacket. Women's jackets in the 18th century could be quite short, have a peplum or reach the knee, like the caraco jacket.
Things You'll Need
- Pattern
- Outer fabric
- Lining fabric
- Eyelets
- Eyelet setting tool
- Ribbon
- Sewing machine
- Coordinating thread
- Hand sewing needle and thread
- Pins
- Scissors
Instructions
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How to Make an 18th Century Woman's Jacket
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1
Choose the jacket style you prefer, depending upon the period of your dress and the desired end result. Shorter jackets are suitable for colonial and post-French revolution looks, while a longer caraco is ideal for a pre-French revolution style. Simpler, shorter jackets are always appropriate for working class or middle class styles. The basic jacket features side seams, a relatively close-fitting armhole, a tight sleeve and a low, scooped neck.
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2
Prepare your pattern. You can opt to start with a basic diagram (see Resources) or purchase an 18th century jacket pattern. Specialty companies and the Simplicity pattern company produce suitable 18th century jacket styles. If you are preparing your own pattern, use a photocopier, scanner or projector to make it easier to size up a relatively complex pattern. This option is ideal for a very experienced costumer, as you will be working without instructions or modern pattern drafting techniques.
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3
Cut your pattern pieces from both lining and outer fabrics. If you are working with a pattern based on historical sketches, be sure to allow for seam allowances. Depending upon the desired formality of the finished jacket, silk, wool, linen or cotton fabrics can all be appropriate for 18th century dress.
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Stitch together the bodice lining and make sure that the garment fits. While this only allows for minimal modifications, it can be a helpful trick if you prefer not to make a muslin, or practice garment. Adjust the fit as necessary, transferring these changes onto the outer garment.
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5
Sew the outer bodice and stitch the bodice and lining together. Consider sewing this by hand for a more authentic look. Sew the sleeve outer and lining and finish the lower edge as desired. Set the sleeve into the bodice, basting by hand before you sew for a good fit and smooth end result.
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6
Set eyelets or buttonholes along each side of the front. Cover eyelets with hand stitching for a more authentic look or simply work embroidered eyelets by hand. Lace with ribbon or cording.
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Tips & Warnings
For a proper fit, an 18th century jacket must be worn with stays.
