How to Build a Goat Stand
If you have goats, you know how hard they can be on everything within reach, and how difficult it can be to hold them for milking or other maintenance. Building a stand will help you solve both problems. Simple building plans can adapted from online sources or from libraries and with the right tools and a few hours, you can build a goat stand that is sturdy as well as functional.
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Things You'll Need
- Measuring tape
- Carpenter's square
- Pencil
- Lumber:
- PARTS A - 1 x 8-inches x 10-feet; cut into three 36-inch lengths (OR use 2-inch stock and adjust lengths/widths for heavy breeds)
- PARTS B & F - (2) 1 x 4-inch x 6-feet; cut into four 36-inch pieces (match length B to length A if adjusting A)
- PARTS C & E - 1 x 4-inch x 8-feet; cut into two 20-1/2-inch and two 18 1/2-inch pieces (match C to width of platform less 1 1/2 inches if adjusting platform size)
- PARTS G & H -- 1 x 4-inch x 8-feet; cut into four 21 1/2-inch and two 4 1/2-inch pieces
- PARTS J -- 2 x 2-inch x 6-feet; cut into three 20 1/2-inch pieces (match length C if adjusting)
- PARTS D - 2 x 4-inch x 6-feet; cut into four 14-inch pieces (or 4 x 4-inch x 6-feet for heavy breeds)
- Safety glasses
- Ear protection
- Circular or hand saw
- Jigsaw (optional)
- Drill and bits
- Philips screwdriver
- Screws
- 1 box 2-inch exterior deck screws
- 4 (3-inch) exterior deck screws
- 24 (1 1/2-inch) exterior deck screws
- Hammer
- Hardware
- 2 (3 inch) corner brackets
- ¼-inch x #20 x 2 1/2 slotted round head machine screw
- ¼-inch wing nut
- ¼-inch #20 hex nut
- 2 ¼-inch flat washers
- 4-inch hook and eye latch
Instructions
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1
Read all instructions before starting. This project is sized for use by a standard goat breed--large breeds may require adjustments to the length and width of the platform (Parts A, B, C & J)--modify as instructed in materials list before beginning construction.
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2
Measure boards as indicated with pencil and carpenter's square.
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Cut to size. Label each piece with the appropriate letter for ease of assembly. Cut out all parts (A through J) of the goat stand.
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4
Attach end of one Part C to the top of each of two legs (Parts D) using 2-inch screws. Repeat with second Part C and remaining two legs to create two sets of supports for the platform.
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Keep all parts square and Parts D to the inside. Use 2-inch screws to attach one Part B to each side of both supports just formed to make the frame, forming what looks like a table without a top.
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Attach one Part J 12 inches from each end, keeping flush with top of Parts B.
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Screw three Parts A to base just formed using 1 1/2-inch screws, attaching to edges and Parts J. Keep everything as square as possible. The platform can now be set aside while you construct the head gate.
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Take one Part E; cut the corner off one end, forming an angle---starting 1/2-inch from the outside edge to a point 4 1/2-inch lower on the inside---on the widest face to allow swivel room for the head gate. Separate the "angle-cut" Part E, the second Part E and two Parts G for assembly
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Lay two Parts E parallel 21 1/2 inches apart, with the angled piece to left and its cut surface facing up and toward the second Part E. Draw a line 4 inches from the bottom of each Part E. Using 2-inch screws, attach one Part G to the upper part of each Part E, and the second Part G to each Part E at the lines just drawn---forming what looks like a squared, inverted "U" with a cross piece 4 inches from the bottom.
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10
Turn the apparatus over and attach 2 more Parts G in exactly the same positions on the opposite side to form a kind of "sandwich" with Parts E in the middle. Use 2-inch screws.
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Lay the two Parts F side by side, edges touching. Draw a shallow oval about 3 x 13 inches, starting 4 inches below the top edge. While still in this placement, draw a line---between a point 4 1/2 inches up from inside bottom edge to another 1/2 inches from the outside of the bottom edge---to form an angle on the left-hand Part F (Label this F1 and the other F2). Draw a straight line across each, 4 inches up from bottom.
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12
Cut off the angled piece with a circular or hand saw; then cut out both halves of the drawn oval using a jigsaw (Finish the inside edges of oval with sandpaper to avoid abrasions to your goat's neck).
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13
Slide Parts F1 and F2 into the space formed between Parts G and align with the mark drawn 4 inches from bottom edges, so they are even with the bottom of the lower Part G and spaced ½ inches on either side of a center point on Part G. Use 2-inch screws to secure F2 in place.
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Use an 11/32-inch bit to drill a hole through both Parts G and Part F1 in the center where F1 and lower Part G intersect. Use a 13/16-inch bit to enlarge the hole to ¼-inch depth on both sides; insert and countersink the ¼-inch x #20 x 2 1/2 machine screw. Attach washer and nut and tighten.
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Prepare the outside corners of the side that will face away from platform by attaching two Parts H on upper Part G (Pre-drill and attach with 3-inch screws). Attach final Part J in front of Part G at Parts H to create a holder for a removable feeder.
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Holding head gate in front of the platform (feeder section facing away), attach with 2-inch screws into Parts E and Part F2, but not through Part F1. Attach 3-inch corner braces to opposite sides of the head gate and platform.
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Sand all sharp edges. Attach the hook and eye latch.
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1
Tips & Warnings
Avoid toxic treated lumber. Try plastic composite lumber instead where rot may be a problem. A rubber mat screwed to the platform makes secure and comfortable footing. Consider adding side rails. Screw steel pipe flanges to each corner of platform. Assemble 3 pieces (per side) of threaded metal pipe joined with "elbows" to create "U" shaped rails. These will be strong enough to prevent "side-stepping", and will serve as restraint attachment points for securing particularly stubborn or kicking goats.
Wear safety glasses and use hearing protection if using a power saw. Adhere to all recommended safety rules for operating power tools.
