How to Build My Own Ring

Whether you're looking for a creative outlet, a new career or are simply wanting to design your own rings, making rings has become quite trendy. According to Janet Oshiro, a Los Angeles based jewelry designer who designs for television shows such as "Desperate Housewives," "Medium" and "Grey's Anatomy," making your own rings takes effort, but can be quite rewarding.

Things You'll Need

• Sterling silver
• Sterling silver solder paste or silver solder chips with flux
• Pickle agent like Sparex Acid
• Pickle pot or a crock pot
• Brillo pad or soft wire brush
• Liver of Sulfur or a hot hard-boiled egg, chopped up
• Fine-tip paint brush
• Propane torch
• Fire brick or ceramic block
• Dremel or fine sandpaper
• Safety goggles or face shield
• Ring mandrel
• Rubber or raw hide hammer
• Chisel
• Metal file
• Heavy-duty wire cutters

Instructions

1. Measure a piece of silver around a ring mandrel to desired size. Cut the silver (or metal of choice) to size and then use a file to create a smooth edge.

2. Create your own design on the ring, using a chisel. Adjust the depth of your pattern by adjusting the force with which you strike the chisel.

3. Use a soft hammer (such as a raw hide hammer or rubber mallet) to form the silver around the mandrel without damaging the surface. Be sure that your edges meet and you have no gap. You may need to remove the ring from the mandrel, place it on its side and give it a tap with your mallet to make the edges touch.

4. Apply a small amount of solder paste to the inside of your ring where the two edges meet. Place your ring on a fire brick. Apply heat in a circular motion. Once your ring starts to glow, focus the flame directly on the solder paste until you see it melt like a river between the two edges.

5. Wait for the ring to cool down, then drop it in the pickling bath. You will know it's done when the ring is white. Most pickling agents come in the form of small white granules that you add to water and heat. A small crock pot will do just fine. Rinse the ring with water then use a Brillo pad or soft wire brush to clean off the white residue.

6. Use a small paint brush to apply Liver of Sulfur to the crevasses of your design. You can also oxidized silver using a hard boiled egg. While the egg is still hot, mash it up in a zip-lock bag with your ring. Seal it quickly to not let the steam out. If you use the egg method, your entire ring will turn black rather than just your design area. Use a Brillo pad to remove the oxidization from unwanted areas.

7. Polish the ring with a dremel rotary sander or fine sandpaper. However, this will give you a brushed metal look. Using a dremel will give you a nice shine.

Tips & Warnings

• When welding thick metal, it is critical to heat up the metal before applying steady heat to the solder paste or the paste with run off the silver rather than adhering to it. Use the torch in a well-ventilated area. Read all the safety instructions first. Don't heat pickling agent up on the stove or in a microwave. Do not mix different types of metal in the pickling bath as it will change the color of your metal.

References

• Janet Oshiro