How to Make Bras

Shopping for a good-quality, well-fitted bra can be a hassle, particularly for women who do not fit into the narrow range of sizes carried by most stores. Often, a woman will have difficulty replacing a favorite bra, or will find that purchasing multiple custom bras is simply too expensive to do on a regular basis. One simple, cheap way to get a new version of your best-fitting bra is to sew it again yourself, using new fabric and materials.

Things You'll Need

• Existing bra
• Paper and pencil
• Measuring tape
• Lycra fabric
• Lycra mesh lining fabric
• Tulle fabric
• Wire casing
• Underwire
• Lingerie elastic
• Bra shoulder straps
• Plastic strap buckles
• Bra cup inserts
• Bra hook closure
• Home sewing machine
• Thread
• Scissors
• Pins

Instructions

Creating the Bra Pieces

1. Take an existing bra that fits you well to use as a template for your pattern. Lay the bra out against a piece of paper and trace each of the cups, pressing them flat to get an accurate representation. Also, trace the side band pieces and the front band piece.

2. Add a 3/8 inch seam allowance to all sides of the cups and bands. Also add an extra 1/2 inch to the bottom curve of the cups to use for wire channeling, if you have not already added this space in Step 1. Cut these pieces from the paper.

3. Lay the bra pattern pieces on top of a single layer of your Lycra fabric. Cut one of each cup and side bands. Cut two of the center front band piece.

4. Lay the bra pattern pieces on top of your stretchy lining fabric. Cut one of each cup. Lay the front band piece on top of the tulle, and cut one.

5. Lay the bra pattern pieces on top of your outer Lycra fabric. Cut one of each cup, one of each band, and two front band pieces.

6. Take the side band pieces. Measure the bottom and top of the pieces to determine how much elastic you will need, then subtract 1 inch or more so that the bra will fit snugly. Cut the elastic pieces.

Sewing the Bands

1. Turn the seam allowances on the top and bottom of both side band pieces under and pin them in place. Pin the lingerie elastic to the band pieces, matching up the edges with the folded edges of the Lycra fabric.

2. Sew the elastic to the fabric using the zigzag stitch function on your machine. Trim the seam allowance to fit.

3. Flip the fabric over and top-stitch over the elastic, using the zigzag stitch, in two rows.

4. Zigzag stitch the bra hook closures to the short ends of the side bands, with the hook side on the right and the eye side on the left. Trim the seam allowances to fit.

5. Sandwich the front band pieces together with the tulle in the center. Fold the top and bottom edges to the inside by 3/8 inch, hiding the raw edges. Top-stitch the edges in place, then also top-stitch the raw side edges.

Sewing the Cups

1. Sew the lining pieces of the cups to the outer pieces of the cups along the top curves, right sides together. Trim the seam allowances and turn the cups right side out.

2. Sew the remaining raw edges of the side band pieces to the sides of the cups. Do the same for the front band pieces. Slip the cup inserts into the open bottom edges, between the layers.

3. Measure and cut the amount of wire casing you will need to cover the bottom curves of the cups. Sew the wire casing to the wrong side of the cups, covering the raw edges of the seam allowances. Top-stitch the edges of the wire casing on the right side of the cups.

4. Slip the underwire into the wire casings, then stitch the wire casings closed.

5. Pin the back side of the bra straps to the side bands where desired, and stitch them in place at the bottom of the band and at the top. Feed the straps through the buckles, then stitch the remaining edges to the front of the bra.

References

• The Bra Dilemma Solved

Resources

• Read this Article in Spanish
• Lingerie Sewing Links List