How to Reshape a T-Shirt Neckline

Open necklines are generally more attractive on women than the crew-type usually found on t-shirts. Reshaping a t-shirt neckline by lowering it is not difficult or time consuming for those who have a sewing machine and basic sewing skills. Once this simple alteration is mastered, future alterations can include creating necklines of different shapes (ovals, squares, v-necks), more decorative edge finishes, etc. This method of alteration keeps the original banding intact through the back of the neckline and extending about 1" over the shoulder seam toward the front. Be careful not to pull the fabric out of shape while working on this project.

Difficulty: Moderate

Instructions

Things You'll Need:

• Ruler
• Straight pins
• Circular template about 7" in diameter (i.e., a salad plate)
• Fabric marking tool
• Sewing machine
• Matching or contrasting thread
• Sharp sewing scissors
• Hand sewing needle
• Steam iron

1. 
    
   Marking the center front

   Find the center front of the neckline by matching the shoulder seams. Measure down about 1-1/2" from the neck edge and mark this point with a straight pin.

2. 
    
   Tracing around a curved template

   Place the t-shirt front side up on a flat surface and gently smooth out all wrinkles. Lay the template on the front of the shirt so that it is centered in the neck opening and just touches the straight pin. Trace around the template with a fabric marking tool to make a curved line.

3. 
    
   Marking a line from neck edges to curved line

   Use a ruler to mark a line that runs from the edge of the neckband at each shoulder seam to where it just touches the curved line. Make sure the straight lines are the same length and angle from each shoulder seam to the curved line. This continuous line marks the new neckline.

4. 
    
   Straight stitching the new neckline

   With a stitch length of 3 mm or more, STRAIGHT STITCH along the newly marked neckline from each shoulder seam to the center point. DO NOT CUT THE THREAD TAILS. This basted/staystitched line will help keep the fabric from stretching during the alteration.

5. 
    
   Zigzagging the seam allowance

   With a stitch length of 3 mm or longer and a width of about 2.5 mm, ZIGZAG (from each shoulder seam to the center) next to the staystitching in the seam allowance without sewing over the existing stitches. Bring these thread tails to the inside of the t-shirt and tie off with a square not, being careful not to pull the threads too tightly. Clip the thread tails. The zigzagging helps to keep the seam allowance from curling when it is trimmed and finishes off the cut edge.

6. 
    
   Trimming excess fabric

   With a pair of sharp scissors, trim around the fabric as close to the zigzag stitching as possible without cutting through the threads.

7. 
    
   Pinning the seam allowance

   Carefully fold the zigzagged seam allowance to the inside about 3/8" or more so that none of the stitching shows on the front of the t-shirt. Pin with straight pins close together and at right angles to the fabric edge. Pay special attention to the area near each shoulder seam where the intact banding is turned under and transitions into the unbanded area; extra pinning may be required here to make sure the fabric lies smoothly.

8. 
    
   Topstitching the new neckline

   Try on the t-shirt, watching out for sharp pins. Make any adjustments necessary to ensure an even neckline. Remove the t-shirt without dislodging the pins. With a medium straight stitch length of about 2.5 mm and the garment right side up, TOPSTITCH around the newly reshaped neckline (from each shoulder to the center) about 1/4" from the folded edge to secure the seam allowance. It may be necessary to move the needle position left or right of center to make the topstitching narrow enough. Pull thread tails to the inside and tie off in square knots. If any of the seam allowance was not caught by the topstitching, sew it by hand to individual topstitches using existing thread tails or new thread. Carefully remove the first line of basting/staystitching, if desired, or knot it where necessary. Cut off all remaining thread tails, or weave them into the seam allowance with a hand sewing needle, being careful that the threads do not show on the front of the fabric.

9. Steam press the new neckline from the wrong side of the fabriic. Try on the garment. If there is still some distortion, it can usually be corrected by manipulating the fabric with the fingers and resteaming.

Tips & Warnings

• This alteration can be used to translate men's t-shirts (which often come in different colors and tend to be less expensive than women's t-shirts) into feminine wear. Before purchasing a man's t-shirt, make sure it fits around the hips. (Consider opening the sides of the t-shirt into slits for extra fitting room.)
• Hand sew and bury thread tails using easy threading needles. Some types thread from the top down into the eye. If the metal in these needles is so sharp it cuts the thread before it can reach the eye, smooth out the offending area with a file, sand paper or something similar. Even nicer easy threaders are available from spiraleyeneedles.com, and thread through a slit at the side of the eye. These needles are very well made and will not need to be filed smooth. They are costlier that the other kind, but are well worth the price.
• Don't pull the knit fabric as you are working on the alteration. To keep distortion to a minimum, especially around curves or in bias areas, ALWAYS SEW FROM EACH SHOULDER SEAM TO THE CENTER OF THE T-SHIRT. Also, when pressing the neckline, use a hot steam iron in an up and down rather than back and forth) motion.

Resources

• How to Reshape a T-Shirt Neckline

[burton3023]

on 9/24/2009 excellent and useful article; this makes clear how to perform what at first try can be a difficult alteration; the techniques introduced here can be used to develop more alteration skills. Very well done, surfingbird.