Things You'll Need:
- Wire stripper
- Wire cutter
- General hand tools
- Electric drill
- Soldering iron and rosin-core solder
- Electrical tape
- 12 volt tester
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Step 1
The first thing you need to do is locate all applicable wires and determine their individual polarity. You will need to find a good 12 volt source, all ignition wires, accessory wire(s), start wire, parking light wire(s), cold brake wire, and tach wire. (Optional) door lock wires, trunk release, horn, heated seats, rear defroster. The 12 volt, ignition, accessory, start, and horn wires are typically close to the ignition switch and/or in the steering column. Use a multi-test tool to determine the polarity and location of the wires. Ignition will usually test positive 12 volts with key in crank and run positions. Accessory will usually test positive 12 volts in the run position. Start will usually test positive 12 volts in crank position. Horn will usually test negative when activated. Most parking light circuits are positive 12 volts with parking lights on. Cold brake wire will test 12 volts positive with brake depressed. Door locks can be positive, negative, or reversing polarity, as can defrost and trunk. The tach wire will give an altering current with the car running which varies with engine speed.
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Step 2
Once you have located the correct wires strip off a small amount of shielding to expose the bare wire. ALWAYS carefully verify the wires are indeed the ones you are looking for!! Ground remote start unit to a heavy metal surface with a self-tapping screw. Kick panels are always a good bet.
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Step 3
One at a time, attach wires from remote start unit to vehicle wiring. Soldering is not required, but HIGHLY recommended! After you have soldered the wires cover the bare wire with a few layers of electrical tape.
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Step 4
After you have connected all wiring consult your remote start manual for programming instructions/user options. Test system. If you were careful and hooked up all the right wires, it will work!













