Things You'll Need:
- Garage Door package
- Tape Measure
- Hammer
- Drill
- Wrenches or socket bits for drill
- Punched Angle metal with bolts/nuts
- Garage Door Weather-strip
-
Step 1
First, make sure you have the time to complete the installation. Depending on your location you may not want to be without a garage door in place to protect your valuables. If this is your first time, then allow at least two days for the installation. A helper is a huge plus when installing the panels, lining things up and just general assistance.
-
Step 2
Open the garage door packages and make sure that all of the parts are there, you normally have a detailed parts list included with the instructions. Do not attempt to install the door if anything is missing. You will also need a couple of lengths of punched metal angle along with bolts and nuts, plus depending on your installation you may also need lag screws to secure the punched angle metal to your rafters. This material is used to secure the rear of the door tracks and is never included in the garage door kits.
-
Step 3
Most instruction sets will include information on removing the old garage door. Be very careful when dealing with the tension spring, it is under a lot of pressure and serious injury can result if you do not respect that possibility. With the old door out of the way, check the framing around the door to make sure that it is solid and it has not rotted out at the bottom which is a typical problem. Correct any framing issues before proceeding along with checking the square of the garage door opening.
-
Step 4
Normally, I like to take the bottom panel fitted with it rollers and prop it in place. This allows me to put the new door guides in place and mount them to the framing, making sure that I keep them lined up vertically. With the door guides mounted to the framing, you should be able to take some quick measurements from the upper guide to the side wall at the door opening. Transfer this measurement to the rear of the guide rail and then using the punched angle metal, mount the rear of the guide rail in place. Now measure the distance across the center of the door opening, guide rail to guide rail and transfer this measurement from the guide rail that is already mounted at the rear to the opposite side, you now know where to mounted the loose guide rail. Using the punched angle metal again, mount the loose guide rail to the rafter. You should not have your guide rails in place, lined up correctly and the lower door panel in place.
-
Step 5
Per the instructions, install the door assistance spring. Depending on the model of door, them could be a single spring that runs across the top of the frame header or individual springs on each door guide. Pay attention to the installation instructions and follow them step by step. Do not try to shortcut anything in those instructions.
-
Step 6
At this point, you should be ready to install the remaining door panels and this is another point where a helper is very useful. The panels normally just stack on top of each other as you install the rollers and hinges. Using your cordless drill with a socket adapter makes this job go fairly quickly. Once you have all of the panels in place and have adjusted the spring tension according to the instructions, you should be able to raise and lower your door with very little effort.
-
Step 7
On the outside of the door, cut and install your weather-strip pieces to fit. I normally like to install the side pieces first, then the top piece letting the ends of the top weather-strip overlap the side pieces. Other than installing some type of lock or electric door opener, your new garage door is finished. Typical savings are in the area of $250-$500 dollars by doing it yourself.
