How to Install Deck Boards Easily

After you have finished framing the deck, you can install deck boards. This is where your deck will start to look complete. Here's how to lay decking.

Difficulty: Moderately Easy

Instructions

Things You'll Need:

• Pressure treated boards, cedar boards, or composite decking
• Circular saw
• Chalk line
• Power drill
• Measuring tape
• Screws rated for outdoor use

1. If you haven't done so already, purchase the deck boards. There are several types and sizes to choose from. There are pressure treated, cedar, and composite. Typical thickness and width sizes are 2 x 4, 2 x 6, and 5/4 x 6. Typical lengths are 4, 8, 10, 16, and 20 feet. We will assume a 5/4 x 6 pressure treated wood in this example.

2. There does not seem to be a consensus on which side to install deck boards first. Do you start on the ledger side (at the house wall) first or the header side (at the opposite side of the wall) first? Most instructions will have you do the wall side first. If your wall is irregular, you may do the header side first. We will start on the wall side.

3. Lay the first piece of decking at the first row and measure the correct length to cut. The edges of the board should be flushed with the edges of the outer joist. Use a circular saw to cut the first board only because it will be tougher to cut when the board is against the wall. (It will be faster to cut all the boards after they have been added and screwed in).

4. 
   Adding the first board

   Add the first board on the first row and screw it in. Using nails to secure the boards will make the work faster but they will pop up in the future. Another advantage for using screws is that it will allow you to replace boards more easily if they are later damaged for some reason. You should drill a pilot hole first to avoid splitting wood.

5. 
   Example of staggered deck boards

   If it takes more than one board to make a row, stagger the pieces to give the deck a much better and aesthetic look. Shown is an example.

6. 
   A diagram depicting the screw pattern

   Add the next board and use spacers such as nails to make the gap between boards 1/8 inch apart. There are several type of spacers you can buy in the hardware store but nails will do just fine. Do not make cuts until you have added the rest of the boards. Drill in a pair of deck screws to attach the deck boards to the joist. See the pattern as shown.

7. When you get about four feet from the end, add boards to see how they fit. Adjust the spacing to make the last board fit. (It would be difficult to cut a long board the long way).

8. 

   After all the deck boards have been screwed in, use a chalk line to mark the circular saw cut to trim the edges. The mark must line up so that the final cut will make the boards flush with the outer edge of the outer joist.

9. 

   After you've added the deckboards to the deck frame, you can add railings and stairs if required. Some local building codes can allow low decks to be exempt from having any railings and stairs.

10. 
    Other deck patterns for joists perpendicular to house

    Shown here are other possible patterns you can use instead of the standard pattern. Note that the direction of joists will limit the choices.

Tips & Warnings

• The gaps between newly installed pressure treated wood boards should not be greater than 1/8. Wood will shrink slightly over the years.

[jasontravisott]

on 8/30/2009 ALSO, there is a big question as to which side is "up" for the deck boards, because of the cupping effect. People tell you to turn the deck board so that the rings on the edge curve down. Other people tell you the opposite is true. Well, here's the truth. Which ever side LOOKS better is "up". If it's smoother, or less knotted, or has less blemishes, that's the side you want up. The reason? Because the cupping of the wood doesn't have anything to do with the orientation of the rings. It's all about moisture. The rain falls, the sun only hits the TOP of the boards, drying that side of the wood first. Meanwhile, under the deck where it's all dark, the water is still on the ground, and the wood is still damp, and the moisture lingers a lot longer causing the wood to dry slower. So cupping is going to happen no matter what side you choose to face up.

[jasontravisott]

on 8/30/2009 * ATTENTION * IMPORTANT * Okay, I JUST got done building a great big deck, and wanted to impart some wisdom to anyone reading this. If you are using treated lumber, DO NOT use the "nail spacer" trick! Trust me on this one. I was fortunate enough to have a friend of mine who is an experienced contractor tell me this. What you REALLY WANT to do is just screw the boards in FLUSH to one another. The shrinkage that is mentioned is no joke! The deck boards started shrinking even before I got all of them on (it took me about a month to lay all the deck boards because I was working by myself) So where is says" Wood will shrink slightly over the years" is a BIG understatement, it will shrink noticeably in a short period of time! In some spots, it's enough to lose a pencil through, so if there had been a gap at the beginning, it would have been much worse.
ALSO, there is a big question as...

[dorigillman]

on 8/30/2009 well done

[romian1]

on 8/30/2009 I've done plenty of research and seen instructions for either side. Most of the steps say to start on the wall side but it wasn't easy to do on a odd shaped wall. If mistakes are made, they are easy to overcome by re- spacing.

[BCPASSIONS]

on 8/29/2009 Great info, Thank you.