How to Build an ADA Wheelchair Ramp
In 1990 the federal government passed a law that requires public buildings to be made accessible to all regardless of their physical disabilities. One of the biggest challenges businesses face is in constructing wheelchair-accessible buildings. Many buildings constructed before the law was enacted must now add an ADA (Americans With Disabilities Act) wheelchair ramp, which has many requirements. Does this Spark an idea?
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Things You'll Need
- 2x4 or 2x6 wood planks to hold the form work in place spaced approximately 3 feet apart
- 1x6 wood planks to be used as form work; enough to cover all sides of the ramp and the height
- measuring tape
- string
- stakes
- concrete mixer
- concrete
- steel trowel
- 3/8-inch rebar pieces enough to make a 6 inch grid through out the inside of the formwork.
- vibrating machine
- medium bristle broom
Instructions
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Measuring
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1
Measure the height you need to meet at the entryway of the building. You will need to calculate the length of the ramp using the 1:12 slope for ADA ramps. This means you have to go out 12 feet in length when you go up 1 foot in height. The ADA ramp also needs to be 3 feet wide.
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2
Measure the area where the ramp will be located. You will need enough room for the proper slope of the ramp and the proper width.
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3
Mark the ADA ramp area using the stakes and the string to designate where the concrete will be poured.
Forms
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4
Cut the 1x6 wood planks to create the side forms of the ramp that will hold the concrete in place. You will need to dig deeper into the ground at the bottom of the ramp when placing the wood so you do not have to cut the wood. Set the wookd planks in place with stakes. This keeps the concrete in the area where you want to form the ramp.
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5
Place stakes around the form work to hold the planks in place. Make sure you have enough stakes to hold the concrete. If you do not use enough stakes, the concrete will bow the planks or push them out completely.
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6
Cut the top level of the form work to match the 1:12 slope so you can use it as a guide when you screed the concrete level.
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7
Place rebar inside the form work. Use 3/8-inch rebar pieces spaced 6 inches apart to form a grid inside the form work. The rebar gives the concrete the strength it needs to resist tension and keeps it from cracking too much.
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Use wire to tie the rebar pieces together. The rebar should be overlapped if you are making a longer length so that it can span the entire length of the ramp.
Pouring The Concrete
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9
Mix the concrete according to the instructions on the bag. It should look like thick oatmeal. If you are getting a concrete mixing truck to come in, make sure the operators know you need it for a ramp and that you want at least a 3000 psi concrete strength if not more.
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10
Pour the concrete at the top of the ramp first.
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11
Pour evenly until the entire ramp is filled with concrete and all the rebar pieces are completely covered with concrete.
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12
Vibrate the concrete during the pour to ensure that it gets in between and underneath the rebar grid. This eliminates air bubbles.
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13
After the concrete is vibrated, trowel the concrete. Use a wooden screed the width of the ramp first. This levels the concrete to the guides of the form work and moves the concrete into places that don't have enough.
Finishing
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14
Use the steel trowel to smooth out the concrete. This finishes the top layer of concrete.
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15
Once the concrete has set for a few minutes and dried a little, apply a broom finish. Take a medium bristle broom and lightly run it over the concrete to make small lines in the smooth finish. This creates a texture that prevents people from slipping and falling when the ramp is wet.
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Remove the form work after the concrete has hardened enough.
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The ramp needs about 28 days to cure before it's used. Spray water on the concrete during this time to keep it from drying up too quickly and cracking
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Tips & Warnings
Any ramp that is taller than 30 inches at its highest point will need a guardrail. Buy more than enough concrete so you don't run short. Concrete must be poured all at once to avoid a cold joint between the pours, which causes cracks.
