How to Create a Clay Slab Pot

This article discusses the techniques of building forms with firm slabs of clay. Making a box may seem basic at this stage, but it does require some understanding of the clay, attention to detail and accurate measuring. Once you have the skills mastered you can successfully build a slabbed form to any dimension.

Difficulty: Moderately Easy

Instructions

Things You'll Need:

• Clay, rolling pin, ruler, hair dryer - to help with drying the clay faster, cardboard templates, knife - exacto or sheetrock or box cutter will do, water, old toothbrush.

1. Roll clay starting from the middle and pushing the clay away from the body and back again. Do not try to roll the clay in one maneuver because this will distort the shape and cause stresses in the clay. Aim to keep even pressure on the rolling pin.

2. Once rolled out, turn slab over carefully on the opposite side. Rotate it 90 degrees so it will be rolled in the opposite direction. Roll slab again until the rolling pin glides over the clay. If small air bubbles appear pop them with a pin or potters pin and then roll again. Repeat process as many times as necessary to remove all air bubbles.

3. When the slab is bubble free and rolled out to desired thickness you may stiffen the slab quickly by using a hair dryer. This will help dry the clay to the correct stage for cutting. Turn the slab over several times while drying. Dry slab to a leather like consistency, where it still has a small amount of flexibility but will basically maintain its shape when held upright. Alternatively, the clay can be left to dry naturally on some newspaper, remembering to turn it over once or twice. On a square foot slab it will take approximately 3 hours until it reaches the leather stage.

4. Cut out cardboard template for each section of the box: one 5 inch(12.5 cm) squares to form the base and four sections measuring 5 inches wide and 4 inches (10 cm) high for the walls. Place templates on a slab as close together as possible. Wrap spare clay in plastic to keep it moist for later use on the box. When cutting the sections of clay, use a ruler along the edge or the template for extra support and to make a sharper cut. ALWAYS cut AWAY from your fingers and body wherever possible.

5. Position a ruler .25 inch(6 mm) inside the edge of one side of your square piece of clay. Holding a knife so that the tip rests on the board and blade on the ruler, cut a mitered edge (knife at approximately a 45 degree angle) starting from the left and working toward the middle, then cut from the right back to the same point. Cutting the miter this way prevents the corner edges from breaking off. Miter EVERY edge of the section the same way. If you making an open box, no top, then ONLY miter 3 sides - bottom and 2 sides, leaving the top alone. Miter all 4 sides of the base section.

6. Using a toothbrush score one mitered edge of the base section, dip your finger in water and run it along the mitered edge you just scored - this is called slip. Score the bottom of one side section and slip. Ease the sections together, checking that both are aligned and the joint is well sealed. Because the slabs are firm the side should stand on its own. Continue to score and slip the base edge next to the previous one, and the edge of the side section that was attached. Score and slip the corresponding edges of another side section and fix it into place as before. Check that all sections align AND that the two corner edges close together as well.

7. 
    
   adding coil to strengthen slab sections.

   Reinforce all joints with coils (or snakes) of clay. This can be done after all sections have been added, but it generally easier to do after adding each section. Roll thin, soft coils and ease them along each joint, using your finger. Apply just enough pressure to smooth out the coil of clay, to much pressure will make the joints open up. Support the outside edge with your hand, finger or clay tool while working the clay coil into the seam. It is important to work it into the angle completely to avoid trapping air in the seam.

8. Once the coil is in place you may smooth out the seam and remove any excess clay either with your finger or by using a round-ended modeling tool. If using your finger smooth clay out to the sides and blend into the slab.

9. Continue adding side sections and reinforcing each section with coils. If you cut out each section accurately, the box should fit together perfectly and the mitered edges ensure the original dimensions remain unaltered. Once the last section is in place smooth over each outside corner of the box as well as turning the box over and neaten the base where all the side sections were attached. You may want to dip your finger in water or use a sponge on the side seams to help smooth and seal them.

10. Turn the box back over. You have a completed slab box or square pot. If using this for planting you will want to cut a whole in the bottom to allow for water drainage. You may now decorate the outside of the pot with cut out pieces of clay. NOTE - when adding clay you will want to score and slip each piece to ensure it will stick.

11. Now you have a complete, decorated slab pot. Once you have perfected creating the slab pot, try different shapes for side, instead of square, try a triangle, or rectangle or what ever you can imagine! Happy creating.

Tips & Warnings

• When mitering edges, place the ruler along the edge at distance equal to the slabs thickness. For example the slab is .5 inch thick, place the ruler .5 inch from the edge.
• Save leftover sections to make smaller boxes, lids, ore vases. Remember to keep them wrapped in plastic and moist until you are ready to use them.
• Slabs that have dried to much may be saved by placing a damp paper towel over or cloth over them.