How to Make Easels

Scale down these measurements to accommodate short painters

If you're already the creative type, making an easel to hold your works of art will add another notch on your belt of creative accomplishments. Your freestanding structure needn't be fancy--unless you pride yourself on putting a spin on everything you do. Be certain the easel is engineered for stability so you're not diverted from the purpose at hand when your newest creation collapses on the job. These instructions will produce a large, three-legged unit capable of supporting big projects. To scale it down, use the math skills your teachers promised would come in handy in the future.

Things You'll Need

• 2-by-3-foot lumber; 2 lengths at 82-3/8 inches; 1 at 81 inches (legs)
• 2-by-4-foot lumber; 1 4 foot length (crossbar)
• 3/4-inch plywood; 48 by 33 inches (backboard)
• 3/8-inch carriage bolts; 2 7-inch bolts; 1 5-inch bolt
• 2-1/2-inch nails
• Saw
• Sandpaper
• Drill
• Wood glue
• Rope
• Industrial stapler
• Sealant (optional)

Instructions

1. Plan your project by sketching out the finished piece so you have an idea of how it will fit together while you're constructing the easel. Re-calculate the dimensions of the easel if you want a smaller or shorter finished unit.

2. Purchase supplies from a local lumberyard. Choose pre-treated wood if you are offered the option. If you have no saw, ask the folks at the lumber supplier to cut your wood down to size using measurements cited in this article.

3. Measure and cut two 82-3/8-inch-long legs from your lumber if you haven't had the wood pre-cut. To match up the top pieces, angle cut them at 15 degrees so the easel's front legs will rest flat on the floor.

4. Drill a 3/8-inch hole 78 inches up from the bottom of each of the front legs on the widest side of the wood. Drill two 3/8-inch holes through the widest side of the 81-inch rear leg at locations approximately 39 inches and 74 inches from the bottom.

5. Cut the horizontal wood brace to measure 4-feet long if you've started with a longer piece of 2-by-4-foot lumber. This will stabilize the easel and hold the plywood backboard in place when the project is done. Prepare the easel's backboard by cutting it to size--48 inches long by 33 inches wide. Sand the ¾-inch plywood sheet until it's smooth.

6. Place the three easel legs on the ground with the rear one in the middle. Align the holes at the top and thread them with a bolt. Loosely affix a washer and nut to hold the legs together. Before you fix the legs in place, stand the unit and spread them 45 inches apart, then tighten the nut to secure the easel.

7. Measure a distance of 38 inches from the bottom of the front legs. Drill and bolt into place the horizontal bar to complete the framework of the easel. Place the sanded plywood backing against the easel so it lines up with the horizontal cross bar. Use glue and nails to attach it. Seal the easel with a commercial product or leave it in its natural state.

8. Use rope to create a tether that limits the back leg's ability to destabilize the easel. Tie, nail or staple the rope from the back of the cross bar to the matching height on the rear leg. You should be able to fold the unit flat for transport and then pull out the back leg when you want to put the easel to work.

Tips & Warnings

• If you plan to keep or use your easel outside, choose galvanized nails and bolts for your project in addition to weatherized lumber.

References

• Life 123
• Buildeazy
• Woodworkers Shop