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How to Make a Tile Out of Clay

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By Jason Messinger
User-Submitted Article
(1 Ratings)
Tile by JasonMessingerArt.com
Tile by JasonMessingerArt.com

The basics steps to making a tile our of clay; either with the Slab-rolled method, or the Slip-cast method.

Difficulty: Moderate
Instructions

Things You'll Need:

  • clay or liquid slip
  • rolling pin or plaster tile mold
  • old newspaper
  • knife
  • ruler
  • object sharp with 90-degree corner
  • heavy book
  • kiln for firing clay
  1. Step 1

    There are two methods for making a tile out of clay. The Slab Method and the poured Slip-Cast method.

    In the Slab Method, clay is rolled out into a slab and cut to a tile shape. Using a large kitchen rolling pin can do the trick. Make sure you roll evenly for best results. Average tiles are 1/8" to 1/4" thick. Any thicker can cause problems in firing.

  2. Step 2

    Using a knife, cut the clay to size. Most clay shrinks when drying, and shrinks again when fired in a kiln, so be sure to allow for slightly larger size if you have a specific size you need. Most commercial clay companies can provide you with the shrinkage rate for the clay body.

    When cutting to size, you can either follow the edge of an existing tile, or make a paper template first. Make a paper template with a ruler and an object with a crisp 90-degree corner

  3. Step 3

    In the Slip-Cast Method, a two-piece commercial plaster mold is strapped together, then liquid clay, called slip, is poured in. Your local ceramic supply company can provide you with tile molds, Duncan makes several in various sizes. The plaster absorbs some of the water from the slip. Unlike other plaster molds, (like for a figurine) tile molds work best when filled solid, meaning you won’t pour off the liquid clay inside after its reached a certain thickness. Instead , as the plaster thickens the clay and pulls open a space, you will keep topping off the slip, so that there is no open space and the tile will be solid. Once the mold has absorbed all the water from the liquid clay, and it is more solid, carefully turn the mold on its side and open the straps, removing the tile.

  4. Step 4

    After the clay is cut to shape, or removed from the plaster mold, carefully place it on flat newspaper. Use your finger to smooth away any imperfections, then layer more newspaper on top. Weight it evenly with another tile, or a heavy book. Clay tends to warp when drying so this step is vital. The moisture in the clay will spread through the newspaper, so if using a book, add a layer of plastic wrap between the newspaper and book to protect the book from damage.

  5. Step 5

    When the clay is bone dry (meaning feels dry, not cool, to the touch, with no moisture) it can be fired in a kiln. This can take one to four days, depending on the humidity of the room you are in. Blowing a small fan nearby can speed this drying time if needed. Bone-dry clay is very fragile, so be careful when moving it at this point. Remember to use the right Bisque firing temperature for the clay body you are using. If you are working in a classroom or similar art studio, ask the kiln operator to assist you in loading the kiln.

  6. Step 6

    Fired clay is called bisque and is ready for your glaze application.
    Follow instructions on your commercial glaze bottle, usually two or three coats are needed. Then fire the tile again - remember to fire to the correct glaze firing temperature (called the Cone temperature in ceramic)
    Glazing techniques will be covered in future articles!

Tips & Warnings
  • Clay dust can be harmful if breathed in, make sure you avoid breathing it in.
  • Glazes can be toxic if ingested, never lick your brush!
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