Things You'll Need:
- Rotary sander with #50 sandpaper
- Counter tile (see article for details)
- Tile mastic (glue)
- Mastic trowel with notched edge
- Disposable rubber gloves
- Tile cutter (depending on the size of the tile--see article)
- Tile spacers (size depends on the gap you want between tiles - 1/8" to 1/4" is typical)
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Step 1
Before you even begin this project, you need to figure out what kind of tile you want to use and how much to purchase. The tile I purchased for this kitchen project came from Lowe’s in one-foot square sections. Each individual tile was slightly under two by two inches with 1/8″ spaces in between. The tiles are held together in a square by dots of glue. This is called “mosaic” tile and is typically used in showers, but it’s also fantastic for counters. A big advantage of tile over laminate is that you can put hot pots right on the counter without scorching it.
To measure for your countertop project, start at one end and measure all the way down to the other end lengthwise. Then measure from the back of the counter to the front. Multiply these two numbers to get your total square footage. For example, if you have a ten-foot section of countertop that is two feet deep, you need twenty square feet of tile. Repeat this process for all the countertops you'll be tiling and add the amounts together.
When you go to pick out tile, you'll find all different sizes (six-inch squares, four-inch squares, one-foot squares, mosaic sections like what you see in this project, etc.). A little simple math will help you figure out how many pieces of tile you need. Enlist the assistance of a store associate if you need it, because they know exactly how to calculate! The store will also help you figure out how many tile spacers you need for your project, and you can purchase them at the same time. -
Step 2
If you have an unusual shape to your counter (like a curved peninsula end), then you'll need to rent a tile cutter to get your tiles to fit the curve. You may also need a tile cutter if your purchased tiles do not fit exactly. Rather than just renting a tile cutter from the get-go, however, I recommend pre-laying your tile without mastic to test the fit. For this project, no tiles needed to be cut. Using smaller mosaic tile almost guarantees you won't have to cut unless you have a curve to go around. The photo at left shows the tiles laid out (not glued) on one countertop to test their fit. You can also see the backsplash tiles leaned against the wall (measure for your backsplash the same way you measured the counters for the tile).
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Step 3
If you choose to use mosaic tile like what was used in this project, you'll be able to snip through the glue dots that join the tiles together to make smaller sections, as you see in this photo. With a little snip, the scissors go right through the glue. Any glue residue left on the edge of the tile can be peeled or scraped off afterwards to leave a smooth edge (particularly important for tiles that will line up with the edge of the counter–you don’t want glue showing there).
If you're using larger tiles and find that you need to cut them to fit, you'll follow the instructions given with your tile cutter, marking each tile with a grease pencil before cutting. Once cut, you can test-fit the tiles to get your layout correct. -
Step 4
Once you've tested your fit and purchased any additional tiles (you may find you need more to get around tricky areas), you're ready to move on to the tiling job. Plan to set aside a long weekend to do this project without interruptions! Your counters will have to cure twice, so you'll need to live without your kitchen sink and forget about preparing meals in there during this process. Ideally, try doing this project when you can stay elsewhere (with a helpful friend or family member) and keep the counters free from spills or food debris.
To prepare laminate to accept mastic (tile glue), you simply need to rough up the counter with #50 sandpaper on a hand-held rotary sander. Before starting, you must remove your kitchen (or bathroom) sink so you can tile right to the edge of the sink's hole. Using the #50 sandpaper, go over the entire countertop surface to rough up the laminate. Change the sandpaper when it starts to feel smooth. The countertop won't feel particularly scratchy when you've finished--in fact, you might not be able to tell any real difference--but if you go over the surface thoroughly, it will be ready to accept the mastic for the tile. -
Step 5
Believe it or not, laying tile is actually very easy with the right tools in hand. Take your trowel and use the smooth edge to scoop up a hunk of mastic. Slap it on the countertop and spread it evenly to a depth of about 1/4". Now use the notched edge to "comb" through the mastic (being careful not to press down to the actual countertop). Do a section about two feet square at a time and no larger. Work from right to left or left to right, whichever makes the most sense in your kitchen layout, beginning in one back corner and working my way across. Leave your pre-laid tile on the counter until you reach the section you want to tile, then lift off the tiles you are going to glue and place them further down the counter. This helps you remember which tiles go where, particularly if you did a lot of cutting to fit.
Starting at one end of the counter, place your first piece of tile on the mastic and give it a slight push to move it into position (usually into a back corner, lining up the edge with the wall or backsplash). You don’t want to lay down the tile far from where it needs to be, because the idea isn’t to mess up the mastic. The slight push is just to encourage the tile to stick into the mastic.
In the photo you see the first four sections in place on the far right edge of the sink countertop. The mastic to the left has been spread and then “combed” with the notched edge of the trowel. -
Step 6
With the first section of tile down, lay the second section, then place spacers between them to make sure the 1/8″ spacing remains consistent between sections. You don’t want a very thick layer of mastic or it will ooze up between the tile spaces.
The spacers used for this project had a little “handle” on the top to make them easier to remove when the tile was set. Conventional spacers can get stuck in the mastic, which means you have to pry them out later with a knife–no fun. -
Step 7
Tiling the rest of the countertop will go very quickly once you have the hang of it, especially if you do the test layout before starting. That added step will save you lots of time, since you won't have to stop to do any special fitting. Just trowel on the mastic, tile, place spacers, and move on. The most challenging part comes when you set the tiles onto the front edge of the counter, which is a tad bit trickier, since you don’t want to drip mastic or drop tiles. In this photo you can see the front edge with mastic and some tile (over the dishwasher).
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Step 8
Here you see the sink countertop completely tiled and ready for grout. All told, it took about twenty minutes to tile this counter, which was approximately 20 square feet.
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Step 9
Here you see the short counter next to the fridge, which went even faster. You see the tile all glued down with spacers. Simple counters like this without holes to go around can be completed in eight to ten minutes.
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Step 10
Here you see the last counter. Peninsulas with a shelf unit at one end can be a lot trickier to finish, even if you've already pre-fitted the tiles.
In an average-sized kitchen, you'll be able to pre-test your tiles, cut what needs to be cut, and do the entire tiling job in one morning if you start early. But don't rush yourself. "Slow and steady wins the race!" -
Step 11
Mastic only takes 45 minutes to set, so if you take a lunch or snack break, you'll be ready to grout when you come back. In Part Two, I'll show you how to grout and seal your countertops!
