How to Fit the Armscye (Armhole) on Garment Patterns

Armholes too tight or binding when you move? This problem can show up in armholes if you are broad-shouldered, so check my article on fitting shoulders first if that's the case. If you're not especially broad in the shoulders (more of an average 15.5" across), then you might just have what I call "bread-kneading biceps." After years of baking bread, my mother's upper arms are beautifully rounded (really muscular!). Many of us have this same fitting issue, whether or not we bake bread. ;-) If you try on a toile and find that the armholes are too tight for comfort, there are a couple of things you can do to correct the problem. And if your sleevebands are too close for comfort, read on. We'll cover those, too.

Difficulty: Moderately Easy

Instructions

Things You'll Need:

• The pattern you want to use
• Measuring tape
• One yard of muslin fabric
• Scissors
• Thread
• Sewing Machine
• Mirror
• Friendly Neighborhood Helper

1. 

   To correctly fit armholes, first baste together a bodice toile (mock-up) made of inexpensive material (muslin is great for this). When you try on a bodice toile, keep in mind that you do *not* have sleeves sewn into your armholes yet. Adding sleeves is going to take up a 5/8" seam all the way around the armhole, which will give you that much more room. I also recommend clipping the curves at the bottom of each armhole after you've inserted the sleeves, as shown in the drawing.

2. 

   This is going to loosen up the armholes quite a bit and make them much more comfortable than they are during the toile stage. If, however, you have already done this and still find the armholes too binding, you will want to trim the armholes down to suit. This is very easy to do, but I recommend having someone help you, since it is easier to gauge how much needs to be cut off while you are wearing the toile. Have a friend mark the areas of the armhole that need to be trimmed with pins or a fabric pencil while you are wearing the toile. When you remove the toile, your armholes will look close to what you see in the illustration at left.

3. 

   Now trim along the pinned lines, easing carefully back into the front (or back) armhole curves toward the top as you go (so you don't reduce the shoulder width unless you intend to do so). Be sure to transfer this new armhole curve marking onto your master pattern pieces as well so you won't have to repeat this process again if you use the pattern to create another outfit.
   
   When you sew your sleeves in, you'll have plenty of room to move!

Tips & Warnings

• If you have a friend with a good eye for fashion and fit, have her help you when you check the fit of your improved bodice/blouse pattern. She'll be able to spot things you cannot see.
• Making the toile for a try-on might seem like a time-consuming step you'd rather skip, but it is vital to getting a perfect fit from any pattern every time. You will be so glad you spent the extra time when you see the fit of your finished garment!

Resources

• Sense & Sensibility Patterns Sewing Tips

[racheltexas]

on 11/7/2009 5*

[SarahElizabeth]

on 10/8/2009 Thank you for the wonderful tips! I'm working on a garment whose armholes are a bit too tight, and I think I'll enlarge the armhole as you suggested. I really appreciate your articles! 5*

[mattsaboy]

on 8/31/2009 Great article and tips. 5 stars with a recommendation.