How to Fit a Pattern for a Long-Waisted Figure

So, you've made your first outfit from a pattern. It went together without a hitch...until you put it on and stepped in front of a mirror. "Wait a minute!" you exclaimed. "This waistline is way too high! This sleeve just doesn't hit me where I thought it would! How am I supposed to be comfortable in this?"

Hold on! Don't throw that pattern out yet! Don't consign that dress to the dustbin! It's simply time to learn some of the tricks of the trade for fitting patterns to suit your personal shape.

All of us are built differently. Even if we fit into a standard "size" on the pattern chart, we may find that the final results are less than flattering because we failed to take into account one or more unique features of our own body type. This article will help you identify those features and modify any pattern to better suit your figure type. And watch for more articles in this series to come!

Difficulty: Moderate

Instructions

Things You'll Need:

• The pattern you plan to use; OR
• A garment that didn't turn out well
• Measuring Tape
• Pins
• Scissors
• Thread
• Sewing Machine
• Sheer Grit

1. This is simply the reverse of the problem discussed in my article on fitting for the short-waisted figure. Instead of finding that something hits you below the natural waistline, on you it rides up, leaving you looking like a little girl who is outgrowing her outfit! The solution for this problem is just as easy as the one for the short-waisted gal.
   
   Instead of folding your pattern pieces down to shorten them, you're going to slash them horizontally and spread them to add the appropriate amount of length. You'll need to compare your nape-to-waist measurement with the nape-to-waist measurement on the pattern pieces in question. If your measurement is 17", and the pattern's measurement is 16", you'll be adding an inch, for example.

2. 

   Cut horizontally across your pattern pieces where the short-waisted gal would be folding hers (see illustration). You are essentially slashing the pattern in two across the midsection.

3. 

   Next, spread the slashes so they are an inch apart (for example). Tape pattern paper or interfacing behind the slash lines, making sure you keep the slash at one inch all the way across.
   
   Nothing to it, right? Make the same change on all bodice pieces, and you've got your personalized pattern ready to go. Cut out a toile and check the fit to be sure the waistline hits you just where you want it to (and remember you'll have a seam allowance at the bottom of any dress bodice piece or a hem at the lower edge of a blouse, so be sure to account for the "loss" of the seam allowance or hem).

Tips & Warnings

• If you have a friend with a good eye for fashion and fit, have her help you when you check the fit of your improved bodice/blouse pattern. She'll be able to help you spot things you cannot see.

Resources

• Sense & Sensibility Patterns Sewing Tips

[racheltexas]

on 11/7/2009 Thank you - this is very helpful!

[racheltexas]

on 11/7/2009 Thank you - this is very helpful!