How to Fit a Pattern for a Short-Waisted Figure

Difficulty: Moderate

Instructions

Things You'll Need:

A garment pattern, OR
A garment that turned out wrong
Measuring Tape
Pins
Scissors
Thread
Sewing Machine

Step 1

Short-waistedness is a problem I was born with, so I can empathize! Those of us who are short-waisted have a nape-to-waist measurement less than 15.5". The natural waistline of just about any off-the-rack dress hits us right across the hipline and makes us look dumpy. Or, because we are so short-waisted, we have a higher bust point than average, meaning that what might be a high scoop neckline on someone else is pretty much "show and tell" on us! So here are two problems we can tackle.

The short-waisted problem isn't going to affect the high empire waistlines popular these days (in fact, this is one style that totally flatters the short-waisted gal). We'll discuss the waistline problem as it relates to the natural waistline styles in a moment. The main problem we short-waisted ladies experience with many garments is the height of the neckline. Even a high scoop neckline is going to appear decollete' on a short-waisted gal with a higher bust point. Or perhaps you're not short-waisted but would like to create a neckline that works better for winter wear and hits higher up (nearer the collarbone). It's extremely easy to make this change.
Step 2

Now, before we even start, I always recommend that you make a toile of the bodice (or blouse) to try on prior to cutting into your fashion material! If you've never used a particular pattern before, it is simply vital to create a muslin mock-up and try it on before you take your scissors to your garment material. Making a toile will save you endless heartache, because you can identify unique fitting problems and solve them before you "ruin" the beautiful fabric you've chosen for your final outfit. This is especially true of patterns with fitted bodices and/or waistlines. What fits a "standard" mannequin perfectly on the designer's end isn't always going to look good on you in the flesh! You might be one of the lucky ones who just hits the "standard" mark in every major area (bust, waist, hips), but it's better to find out before you cut into that fashion material. ;-) It's never a "waste" to throw out a toile and start over. Muslin is cheap, and learning on the toile is far less painful than learning on the final outfit!
Step 3

To begin, measure to decide where you want your neckline to hit once it is sewn. You can measure from the top of your shoulder to the bottom of the neckline. Compare this measurement to the actual pattern piece (measuring from the pattern's shoulder area to the bottom of the neckline for your size, keeping in mind the seam allowance in both areas). Let's say you want to add two inches total. Make a note of this. When you cut out your bodice toile, leave the neckline until last. Go ahead and cut around the bottom and sides of the pattern piece, all the way up to the shoulder, as shown in the illustration.
Step 4

The dotted lines show the repositioned pattern piece.

Next, lift the pattern piece and reposition it so that the neckline curve hits (as in our example) two inches higher, as illustrated here.
Step 5

Cut around this raised neckline curve, smoothly joining it to the shoulder at the top. You can repeat this process for the back neckline as well if you wish. As you can see, this is extremely simple and requires no special grading techniques or mathematical equations! You're just using the neckline curve as-is from the pattern piece, raising it to hit where you prefer it to hit (always remember to include the 5/8" seam, since that amount will be "lost" when you sew the bodice to the lining or facing around the neckline). Piece of cake! And you can, of course, get really creative and try out different neckline shapes (squared, wider, narrower, etc.).
Step 6

Okay, now let's tackle short-waisted problem #2, which is going to occur on just about any pattern with a natural waistline. For a tailored jacket or blouse that is meant to hit at the waist, you need to make alterations to shorten the pattern pieces so the final outfit will hit you at your natural waistline. Many commercial patterns already have the "Miss Petite" lines drawn on the pattern pieces in the appropriate spots. You'll just fold the pattern to raise the waistline. This is the same technique you can use on all of the other patterns that hit at the natural waistline. In the illustrations to follow, I'll show you where to fold any jacket, dress, or blouse pattern piece to shorten appropriately.
For starters, at left is an illustration of the center back piece of a long, tailored jacket pattern with pleated vents.
Step 7

Before you alter any pieces, compare your nape-to-waist measurement with the nape-to-waist measurement on the center back piece of the pattern piece. Let's say your nape-to-waist measurement is 15", while the pattern's measurement is 16.5". You'll need to subtract 1.5" from the pattern pieces to get a correct fit. To do this, you will simply fold the pattern pieces down right above the waistline at the same point on each piece. The fold will be 3/4" deep (taking up a total of 1.5"). The drawing shows what you'll see when you've folded your piece properly. Make sure you are folding horizontally (at a 45-degree angle from the "straight grain" arrow marking) all the way across the pattern piece. Repeat this on each pattern piece that connects to the first one. When you've finished, cut out your toile from the adjusted pieces and baste them together for a try-on. I think you'll be pleasantly surprised at the delightfully tailored look that results -- no more bagging and bunching above the hipline!
Step 8

To alter the waistline of a dress bodice, you're going to do essentially the same thing (only you won't have as many pattern pieces to change!). For a kimono-style bodice, which has a one-piece bodice back/front, you'll fold both the "upper" and "lower" portions of the bodice pattern piece as shown in the illustration.
Step 9

For the a conventional dress, you'll fold the back piece and the front piece. You can fold the back piece anywhere below the armhole, but you'll want to check the positioning of the fold on the front piece so that you don't interfere with a curving line of the bottom of the bodice (where the gathers might go) or with darts.

This is truly all there is to it! You won't need to change your skirt pieces at all, since the hipline will automatically be raised when the skirt is sewn to the adjusted bodice. But what a difference in fit can be made with this simple adjustment! You won't have "bodice hangover" or awkward wrinkles and puckers just above the waistline, and the hipline of the skirt is not going to be too tight.

Comments

sensibility said

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on 11/19/2009 So glad this was helpful! Good fitting is the secret to great sewing. Once you know what to look for and how to tweak it, you'll get professional results every time!

on 11/19/2009 WOW you make this sound so easy! I know now some extra tips and tricks to keep from playing "show and tell" with my clothes! A problem I have always had and now I have the solution! What a life saver! :)