How to Fit a Pattern When You Have an Elongated Neckline

So, you've made your first outfit from a pattern. It went together without a hitch...until you put it on and stepped in front of a mirror. "Wait a minute!" you exclaimed. "This waistline is way too high! This sleeve just doesn't hit me where I thought it would! How am I supposed to be comfortable in this?"

Hold on! Don't throw that pattern out yet! Don't consign that dress to the dustbin! It's simply time to learn some of the tricks of the trade for fitting patterns to suit your personal shape.

All of us are built differently. Even if we fit into a standard "size" on the pattern chart, we may find that the final results are less than flattering because we failed to take into account one or more unique features of our own body type. This article will help you identify those features and modify any pattern to better suit your figure type. And watch for more articles in this series to come!

Difficulty: Moderate

Instructions

Things You'll Need:

• The pattern you want to work with, OR
• A garment that didn't turn out right
• Measuring Tape
• Pins
• Scissors
• Sewing Machine
• Mirror
• Determination

1. 
    

   This article deals with one of the more common fitting problems on today's fashionable empire waist blouses and dresses (though it applies equally to other styles where you need to adjust bodice length to suit a longer neckline). You love the look of the high empire waist, but when you put the dress or blouse on, the "waistline" hits you across the middle of the bust, as shown in the illustration.

2. 
    

   Does this mean the empire style cannot flatter you? Not at all! It simply means that you have what I call a "ballerina" neckline. Ballerinas have that regal, swanlike neck from years of perfect posture and practice. Whereas the average bust point on most of us is about 10"-10.5" down from the shoulder, the ballerina has an elongated collarbone/neckline area, and her bust point hits closer to 12" from the shoulder. (You don't have to be a real ballerina to experience this, by the way; you might have just been born with this figure type.) Because of the elongated neckline, a typical empire "waistline" is going to cut you right across the center of the bust or make it very uncomfortable for you to raise your arms even the slightest fraction. Fortunately, the remedy is extremely simple, and, thanks to one of my customers, I have photos to show you how it is done!
   
   In the first photo here, you see two empire gown bodices. The one on the right was created first, and the wearer found it too short (she has that regal ballerina neckline!). She wrote me to ask if there was a mistake in the pattern pieces, since the gown just wouldn't work as-is.

3. 
    

   I explained "ballerina syndrome" and confirmed that the solution she had come up with (lengthening her bodice pieces to accommodate her lower bust point) was absolutely correct. As you can see in the photo, she ended up adding two inches to the lower edge of each piece.

Tips & Warnings

• It's always a good idea to cut out a muslin practice bodice (called a "toile") to baste together and try on before you cut into fashion material. Working with a new pattern can often be an exercise in frustration if you run into fitting issues after making the garment!
• If you have a friend with a good eye for fashion and fit, have her help you when you check the fit of your improved bodice/blouse pattern. She'll be able to help you spot things you cannot see.

Resources

• Sense & Sensibility Patterns Sewing Tips

[racheltexas]

on 11/7/2009 I appreciate you sharing all these helpful tid-bits!

[SarahElizabeth]

on 10/8/2009 Thank you for sharing these wonderful tips! 5*