How to Make Glass Lampwork Beads
Lampworking beads involves melting glass around a metal rod, known as a mandrel, by applying direct flame at temperatures of around 800 degrees. These beads can vary from basic round to multicolor sculptural works of art. Once you have made a few basic beads, you will want to add a second color of glass, plus other tools, such as tweezers, knives, pliers and graphite paddles, to the list below so that you can pinch, pull and swirl designs into the beads.
Things You'll Need
- Bead release
- Mandrel
- Torch with glass-appropriate head
- Lighter
- Glass rod
- Marver
- Bead rake
- Fiber blanket
- Bowl of water
- Pliers
- Bead reamer
Instructions
-
- 1
- 2
-
-
3
Bring the glass rod to the edge of the flame, waving it a little, and allow it to heat. When it starts to droop, begin turning the rod, trying to keep the glass level as you bring it farther into the flame. When it glows orange and is fairly fluid, touch the melted end of the rod to the coated end of the mandrel.
-
4
Slowly wrap the glass around the mandrel, keeping the two rods at a 90 degree angle to each other. Once you are happy with the size of the bead, carefully pull the glass rod away from the mandrel. Keep turning the bead, using gravity to even it out.
-
5
Roll the bead across the marver to flatten and shape the surface. Return the bead to the heat, and when it has turned orange again, manipulate it with the bead rake, being careful not to scratch the bead release. Flame anneal the bead by moving it to the edge of the flame, still turning it, until the glass hardens again and the glow in it fades.
-
6
Slide the finished mandrel into the fiber blanket and allow it to cool for at least 30 minutes. Soak the mandrel in room-temperature water for a few minutes to soften the bead release, then grasp the mandrel with a pair of pliers, while you pull the bead off with your fingers. Use a bead reamer to remove excess bead release from inside the bead.
Tips & Warnings
To reduce breakage, anneal your beads in a kiln. Don't start out working with black or white glass. Once heated, it is hard to tell when another color has been added to black glass, and it is very easy to get scorch marks in pure white glass.
Working with glass and open flame is inherently dangerous. Wear closed-toe shoes, pull back your hair and make sure that everything has been secured. Always wear safety glasses. Both propylene brazing fuel and oxygen/propane mix can asphyxiate you, and if used improperly, explode. Check your torch/head/tubing for leaks and work in a well-ventilated area. Don't expose canisters to heat, and make sure any tubing has been fitted with a flashback arrestor. Glass that has been exposed to flame is dangerously hot, and will remain so for some time. That sounds obvious, but keep that in mind if you start to instinctively reach for a rod that is rolling off your work surface, or have an urge to just nudge a piece of your work with a fingernail.
References
- Photo Credit Amber Royer