How to Install Acoustic Foam
You've probably noticed that when you are in an empty room, void of furniture and carpeting, your voice tends to echo more than in a room full of both of those items. Acoustic foam is foam resembling an egg-crate used in recording studios to absorb sound, cause less echoes and background noise, and keeps sounds contained into one area. Does this Spark an idea?
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Things You'll Need
- Tape measure Acoustic foam Electric carving knife Utility knife or hand saw Tubetak or Foamtak Cardboard sheets or wall paneling Small tack hammer Tacks Dust mask Safety goggles
Instructions
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1
Measure the dimensions of the room in which you will be installing the acoustic foam. You do not have to cover the ceiling with acoustic foam, however it will make the area more soundproof. Measure the height and length of each wall, account for windows and doors.
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2
Unroll the strips of acoustic foam, or unwrap the panels of acoustic foam from their package. To achieve a permanent yet transportable soundproofing we will be attaching all the acoustic foam to cardboard or wood paneling, so that it can be attached permanently to the wall, but is able to be moved if a relocation is needed.
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3
Begin to cut the acoustic foam and cardboard or wood paneling to coincide. Cut the acoustic foam with the electric carving knife; this makes the foam easier to cut and easier to handle, you can even cut it into specific shapes as needed. Be sure to wear your safety goggles and dust mask to prevent particles of the foam from getting into your eyes or airways. Cut the cardboard or wood paneling with an utility knife or hand saw.
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Attach the acoustic foam to the cardboard or wood paneling using the Tubetak or Foamtak glues. Both types of glues are intended specifically for use with foam products, especially in soundproofing applications. You will need to use a generous amount of the glue to attach the foam. Apply the glue to the entire back of the acoustic foam, rather than just along the edges, this will keep the foam from sagging later on.
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Allow the glue to dry for a couple of hours before beginning to place the assembled pieces on the wall.
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Use tacks to nail the assembled pieces onto the wall. Tack only around the edges so that the tacks are easily found if you find yourself needing to remove them one day. Start at the top or bottom corner of a wall when attaching the pieces, if you reach a corner and need a smaller piece just use the utility knife and electric carving knife to cut the pieces down to size.
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Test your room's soundproofing. Inside the room with all the doors and windows closed you shouldn't be able to hear much noise at all from other rooms, and noises and sounds created inside your soundproofed room should not be heard easily in other rooms.
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Tips & Warnings
You may also choose to attach paneling to the inside of a door; this will make a room all the more soundproof.
References
Comments
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rockmandan
Sep 09, 2009
whoever wrote this clearly has no experience in actual studio construction or audio engineering. Putting up a bunch of foam in your room will NOT soundproof your room. It will dramatically cut down on reflections inside the room, and if placed right with the proper bass traps, make your room much more flat frequency-wise so as to produce music, but it will do very little to keep sound from going out. Specifically low frequencies, like bass drum and bass guitar, will pass right through your foam and walls like its nobody's business. If you're expecting to play a drumset at full volume or crank your stereo in an apartment without angering your neighbors, think again. True soundproofing is down by eliminating the vibrations that transfer from one room to another. The best way to do this is to create an air pocket between two layers of walls, IE a room within a room. this is how r... -
rajshreep
Sep 05, 2009
Nice instruction on acoustic tratment
