How to Use a Super 8 Belay
The Black Diamond Super 8 is a figure-8 belay device made of anodized steel. It looks like an 8 with holes in the big and small ends. The device can be used for rappelling and belaying, although it is best used in different configurations for the two. The popularity of the Super 8 has decreased since the introduction of the ATC belay device because rappelling on a Super 8 increases kinks in the rope. Belaying with a figure-8 device can be difficult, as there is not enough friction to hold a severe fall.
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Instructions
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Getting Started
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1
Hold the Super 8 device with the smaller portion of the 8 facing toward you.
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2
Take a loop of rope and slide it through the big end of the 8, rapping the loop around the small end of the 8. The loop should be close to the climber for belaying or close to the anchor for rappelling.
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3
Clip the small end of the 8 to the belay loop of the harness with a carabiner and lock the carabiner so it cannot come off the harness.
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4
Brake by pulling the rope with your brake hand close to your body from either end of the 8.
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5
Carefully feed rope through the device when belay a climber so no twists develop in the rope. Properly stacking the rope to one side is helpful in ensuring this.
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Tips & Warnings
A better belay can be gained with a Super 8 by feeding a bight of rope through the small hole of the 8 and clipping the rope to your locking carabiner. This creates more friction, akin to an ATC. When doing this, clip the big hole of the 8 to the carabiner below the rope so the 8 can't slide too far away.
When rappelling with a Super 8, friction can cause a lot of heat to build up on the device; be careful not to touch the device immediately after reaching the ground. Be careful to keep long hair away from the rope and device while in use; hair can easily get wrapped around the rope and stuck in the device.
