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Step 1
When beets germinate they send up two small leaves called cotyledons, which are thin and strap-like and bear no resemblance to the mature plant’s leaves. Next, the seedling develops what are called “true leaves." These leaves are simply baby versions of the beet’s mature leaves. Wait to thin until the seedlings have one set of true leaves and are just beginning to put out their second set.
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Step 2
Hand-pulling the seedlings that you’d like to thin out can disturb the roots of the seedlings that you’d like to keep. So, instead of pulling, simply use scissors to snip off the seedlings you don’t want at the soil line. I like to use needlenose kitchen scissors, because they are easier to maneuver in small spaces. Leave about 3 inches of space between the beet plants.
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Step 3
When small baby beets have formed, go back and thin out every other plant so that there is 6 inches between the beets. Eat the small beets and let the ones in the garden mature to their full size.
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Step 1
The best time to transplant seedlings is when you have one set of true leaves. Water the seedlings well a couple of hours before you plan to transplant.
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Step 2
Using a spade, dig up the clump of seedlings. Make sure to get as big of a root mass as possible. Set the clump of seedlings down and use your fingers to gently tease the seedlings’ roots apart.
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Step 3
Now you’re ready to transplant the seedlings to their final home. Loosen up the soil at the transplant site. Make a hole that is as deep as the seedlings’ roots are long. Then pick up a seedling by its leaves and nestle its roots into the hole. Backfill the planting hole with soil. Space the seedlings 6 inches apart.
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Step 4
Water the seedlings in. Don’t worry; they might look a little droopy for up to a week. Just keep the soil consistently moist and they will eventually perk up.
