How to Change Black Hair Color

Changing the color of naturally black hair requires first lightening the hair and then layering the desired hair color on top. Alternatively, a toner can be used to eliminate unwanted shades present after lightening hair to achieve pale colors such as white blonde. Caution should be used when attempting to change black hair color as the lightening process can easily damage the hair.

Difficulty: Moderately Easy

Instructions

Things You'll Need:

• Gloves Towel Applicator bottle Developer Lightener Timer Shampoo Conditioner Toner or desired hair color Additional developer to correspond with the toner or hair color

Changing Colors

1. Buy the appropriate volume developer. It is important to use the lowest number possible to prevent damage. For black hair, a developer with a volume of 30 should be adequate, although if you are attempting to lighten your hair to pale blond, then use the 40 volume developer.

2. Choose the type of lightener. Powder lightener is common for at-home use but it is not safe for the scalp and can cause chemical burns or sores if it comes into contact with the skin. Cream lightener is safer and has the ability to dramatically lighten dark hair. Another option is oil lightener, which is also safe but will not lighten hair more than one or two shades. Consult the hair color box to see how light your hair will need to be. See tips.

3. Perform an allergy test with the hair color 24 to 48 hours before applying. Mix up a small amount of the hair color with the developer it came with and apply this mixture to the inside of your elbow. Allow the spot to remain on your skin for 24 hours and then examine for redness or irritation. Any irritation indicates that you may have an allergy to the product and should not use it.

4. Perform a strand test. Pluck a few hairs from your head and wrap them around a dark piece of paper or cardboard. Mix up a small amount of the cream lightener and developer and apply it to the strands of hair. Wipe the strands clean with a damp cloth after 15 minutes and inspect the color. If the strands are still too dark, reapply the mixture and check again in five minutes. Once you are satisfied with the level of lightening achieved you will know how long to leave the lightener on your hair.

5. Mix the cream lightener and the developer in a plastic applicator bottle. The normal ratio of developer to lightener is 1:1, but if you are trying to achieve light blond hair use a 2:1 ratio. Be sure to wear gloves.

6. Divide the hair into four sections and begin applying the lightener at the back of head. Apply the lightener to one section working it toward the ends of the hair until the entire section is covered from the root to the tip. Repeat the process with the remaining three sections, ensuring that the two back sections are done first and the two front sections are covered last.

7. Check the hair after 15 minutes or the amount of time indicated by your strand test. In order to check the hair, spray a small section of hair with a water bottle and remove the lightener with a damp towel. Examine the hair, and if the desired lightness has not been achieved, reapply the lightener and continue checking frequently until the desired shade is achieved.

8. Rinse the hair thoroughly with lukewarm water. Shampoo and condition the hair gently trying to avoid tangling the freshly lightened hair. Towel hair dry and examine it carefully to check for any signs of damage or breakage. Damaged hair will feel stretchy or mushy while wet and brittle when dry. Hair that has been damaged may not accept a toner or additional hair color properly, so proceed with caution.

9. Layer an additional hair color over the lightened hair. Read the directions on the bottle of the hair color you have chosen and be sure that you use the appropriate developer with it. If you bought the hair color in a box kit then it will include the appropriate developer.

10. Lighten the hair past the pale yellow stage with a toner if you want pale blond. Toners work by neutralizing unwanted colors in hair in order to cancel them out. So, if hair is pale yellow, then a violet toner would be used to achieve white blonde hair as yellow and purple are opposites on the color wheel. In order to remove an orange tint from hair, a blue toner should be used as blue and orange are opposites on the color wheel.

11. Follow the directions on the package of the hair color you have selected.

12. Mix the toner and developer in a 1:1 ratio and repeat Steps Five through Seven with the toner.

Tips & Warnings

• Hair cannot be lightened past the pale yellow stage without significant damage. In order to achieve a lighter hair color, toner will need to be used. Cream lightener, developer and a plastic applicator bottle can all be found at your local beauty supply store.

References

• Milady's Standard Cosmetology; Arlene Alpert, et al.; 2004
• Sally Beauty Supply