How to Sew Denim Jeans

Many people today have a difficult time finding commercial denim jeans in the styles that they like, in a size that fits them well. Rather than keep on the hunt for the perfect pair, you can always create your own. Sewing your own jeans does not have to be a nightmare project of professional-level sewing, like some guides may lead you to believe. Jeans are just another pair of pants, with a few technique alterations. Make your own custom-tailored, well-fitting pair of jeans.

Things You'll Need

  • Old jeans Seam ripper Scissors Denim Fabric pencil Measuring tape Pins Sewing machine Heavy-duty machine needles Heavyweight cotton thread Iron and ironing board Zipper Button
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Instructions

    • 1

      Take an old, worn-out pair of pants or jeans that fit you well and cut them apart at the seams. Cut the legs at the side seams and inseams, cut off the waistband, belt loops and pockets, remove the fly pieces with a seam ripper and cut the center back and center front seams. If you prefer, use a commercial pants pattern instead of cutting apart a pair of pants.

    • 2

      Discard one of the legs, so that you have only one front and back leg piece. Lay each leg piece on top of a double layer of denim fabric and trace around them. Draw an outline around your tracing, adding 3/4 inch to each side. Cut along the outside line. Lay the waistband, fly pieces, belt loops and pocket pieces on top of the fabric as well, adding 3/4 inch to each side. Cut two of each.

    • 3

      Stitch the inside and bottom edges of the front pocket pieces together. Stitch the lower top sides of the front pocket pieces to the front of each pocket opening on the legs, then line up the outside edges with the side seams on the legs.

    • 4

      Stitch the front and back leg pieces together at the side seams, creating a flat-felled seam. To this, pin the pieces wrong sides together and baste them 3/4 inch away from the edges. Press the seam open and trim one side of the seam allowance to 1/4 inch. Fold the longer seam allowance in half, encasing the smaller seam allowance and the raw edge of the larger seam allowance. Press the seam allowance flat and pin it in place. Stitch along the folded edge on the outside of the material, then stitch beside your basting. Remove the basting stitches.

    • 5

      Turn the top of the back pocket pieces under 1/4 inch, then 1/2 inch and stitch in place. Stitch the back pocket pieces to the backsides of the legs, making the edges flat-felled like you did in Step 3.

    • 6

      Stitch the front and back of each leg together at the inseam, also using a flat-felled seam. Fold the hem of each leg under 1/4 inch, then another 1/2 inch and stitch along the fold to create a hem. Fold the center front edge under and press. Fold the fly pieces in half and press them flat. Pin the fly pieces to the center front edges, attaching the raw edges of the right fly piece under the right center front edge with the right zipper piece wedged between. Stitch through all layers. Pin the left fly piece to the left side, matching the folded edge, and stitch the left zipper underneath the fly piece, lining it up with the other side.

    • 7

      Stitch the center front and center back edges together, creating a flat-felled seam beneath the left fly piece. Top stitch on the left center front edge, following the curve of the fly piece. Fold the edges of both waistband pieces under on all sides and sandwich them together, then sandwich the top edges of the legs between those pieces. Top stitch all around the waistband. Stitch a button and buttonhole to the center front edges. Stitch together and attach the belt loops in the same manner you made the waistband.

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