How to Do a California Hem on Blue Jeans
With the large variation in size and proportion among people, it is impossible for stores to carry blue jeans in lengths that fit all of their customers. Many people, rather than wear ill-fitting jeans, take their clothes to a tailor to have the length altered. Others prefer not to spend the money, and will simply cut the hem off the jeans, leaving a ragged appearance. However, there is no need to worry about spending money on a professional tailor, as any beginning stitcher can customize the length of her jeans by using a neat, even-looking California hem.
Things You'll Need
- Home sewing machine Heavy-duty needles Scissors Thread Pins Measuring tape Fabric pencil Iron and ironing board Seam ripper (optional)
Instructions
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1
Determine where you would like the hem of your blue jeans to fall. Usually, the hem should fall an inch away from the ground while you are in the shoes you plan to wear with this pair of jeans. You may, however, choose to raise the hem slightly if you are going to wear the jeans with sneakers or very low flats. Have a friend measure the amount of length you will need to take off the jeans while you are wearing them. If desired, make a mark on one of the legs with a fabric pencil.
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2
Divide your measurement in half. Lay the pair of jeans out flat on a surface and turn up the leg bottoms into cuffs. Arrange the cuffs so that the amount of cuffed jean fabric equals your final measurement in Step 2, not counting the existing hem. Pin the cuffs down so that they stay in place, matching up the vertical seams on the sides of the jeans. Double-check your measurement on both legs after pinning.
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3
Put one leg of your jeans on your sewing machine's base, lining up the existing hem stitching just beside the needle, on the far side. Stitch a straight line alongside the existing hem, using a heavy-duty needle. You may wish to wear a pair of safety goggles in case the needle breaks in the heavy denim fabric. Finish the new California hem by backstitching neatly, then clip the loose threads.
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4
Turn down the hem and put the pants back on, with the shoes you intend to wear. Look in the mirror and determine whether you are satisfied with this hem length. If not, you will need to tear your stitching out with a seam ripper and start over.
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5
Repeat Step 3 on the other jeans leg. Cut the excess cuffed fabric off both legs, leaving 1/2 inch for seam allowances. Press the seam allowances open with an iron, then zigzag stitch or serge the raw edges so that they do not unravel. You can also fold the seam allowances together and stitch them closed, but this may be bulkier than you would like. Turn the jeans right side out and press the California hem flat on each leg.
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Tips & Warnings
For flared jeans, cut the existing hem entirely off 1/2 inch above the stitching. Mark your cutting point, plus 1/2 inch seam allowance, on the legs, and take the side seams apart up to just above this marking. Extend the marking point's circumference to that of your hem piece, then adjust the seams above that point so that it flares smoothly. Stitch the new side seams together, then reattach the hem.
