How to Make Slip Covers for a Sofa

This is NOT an actual photo of the slip cover you are about to make

A slip cover is a great way to restore an old piece of furniture. Many times, though the fabric of the couch is worn out, the structure is still very strong. Instead of paying to have the piece reupholstered, a practical way to give it new life is to cover it. An even more economical way to do this is the make the cover yourself.

You will need to be familiar with basic sewing terms and practices, as well as your own sewing machine for this article.

Things You'll Need

• a sturdy, soil-resistant fabric of medium weight
• thread and machine needles suitable to the fabric
• heavy-duty slip cover zippers for the cover itself and cushions
• cable cord for the cording
• seam or twill tape for reinforcement
• t-pins for pinning the thicker fabric
• snap or nylon tape, or tacks for securing the cover to the frame
• measuring tape
• pencil and paper
• marking chalk

Instructions

1. You will need to take measurements for yardage. First, remove the cushions.

   Measure from bottom edge at back, over furniture top, then down to the bottom edge at the front; add 11" for facings. This will be Measurement A. Write it down on your piece of paper. For a wide piece, such as a sofa, multiply length by number of fabric widths needed.

   Measure from inside arm a seat, over the arm, then to the bottom edge at side; add 5 1/2" for facing. This is Measurement B. Multiple by 2 to arrive at total length needed for both arms.

   Measure around the entire cushion; add 2" for each seam crossed. This is Measurement C. For two or more cushions of the same size and shape, multiply this total by the number of cushions.

   Because the width of most fabrics is 48 inches, these measurements assume that one 48" panel will be enough. If the fabric you choose is more narrow, extra length may be needed. However, if the fabric is wider, less fabric may suffice. Be very careful in your estimates, skimping could lead to a costly mistake!

   If you plan to cord the seams, extra fabric will be required. Estimate about 1 yard extra fabric for an average-sized chair, 1 1/2 yards for a large chair, or 2 yards for a sofa. Measure the seams of the upholstery to find the cording requirements.

   Add up your total measurements (including cording covers but not the cording itself) in inches. Then, divide the sum by 36 to arrive at the yardage you will need.

   Now you can go buy your fabric!

2. We are going to be using the actual piece of furniture as a guide. With this method, the fabric is pinned to the furniture with it's right side out to permit an accurate fitting of any of he furniture's irregularities. In general, we will be draping the fabric over the furniture and pinning it in the center of the section, then smoothing it toward each side, then upward and downward, keeping the grainlines straight and pinning to the furniture as we progress. Lengthwise grain should run from top to bottom of each vertical section, from back to front of horizontal sections (the cushions). Cut out the section allowing 1-inch seam allowances on all edges, and tuck-ins where necessary. Tuck-ins are needed at points where movement occurs when furniture is sat upon - where back and arms meet at the seat platform, for example.

   If the fabric is plain and of a solid color, you can mark and remove each section after its fitting. It is better, however, to pin the entire slipcover before removing any part of it. Where two or more sections must be cut identically, such as the top and bottom of a cushion, you can cut one and then unpin it to use as a pattern for cutting the other. When the other piece is cut, pin-fit all of the sections to check their fit.

   Although some slipcovers will have more seams and sections than others, most can be divided into units, and the units cu, fitted, and sewed in the following order: (1) top and inside back, (2) seat platform and apron, (3) arms, (4) outside back, (5) cushions.

   Let's get started!

3. Top and Inside Back

   With right side out and lengthwise grain running vertically, drape fabric over the top and back. Pin in place down the center then, working from the center out, smooth fabric until it is taut, and pin at sides. Leaving a 2" fold between back and top, pin fabric across top; pin along seamline.

   Leaving 1" seam allowances, trim the back of the top, the sides, and the arms (if tuck-ins are necessary between back and arms, allow an extra 3" of fabric). Clip and notch seam allowances where this is necessary for fabric to fit. Trim at seat, allowing 6" for tuck-in. Cut fabric along fold between top and inside seam.

4. Seat Platform and Apron

   Allowing 6" to extend up the back, position fabric on seat as was done for the inside back. Leaving a 2" fold between seat and apron, pin fabric to apron. At back and arms, trim fabric, allowing 6" for tuck-ins. Trim other edges, except bottom, to 1" seam allowances (2" at bottom). Cut along fold at seat and apron.

5. Arms

   Positioning lengthwise grain vertically, center and pin fabric to top of arm, then down inside of arm. Trim all edges that do not need tuck-ins to 1" seam allowances (at seat, allow 6" for tuck-in; if tuck-in is needed at back of arm, allow 3"). Position and pin fabric to front of arm; trim to 1" seam allowances.

6. Outside Arm and Side Back

   Depending on upholstery seams, these may be cut as one piece, or as two. With the lengthwise grain vertical, drape fabric down arm, the up side back (if two pieces, allow an extra 2" between). Center as needed; pin. Trim edges, allowing 1" for seams (2" at bottom). If necessary, cut along fold between sections.

7. Outside Back

   With the lengthwise grain vertical, drape the fabric down the back. Center the fabric and pin it down the center. Working from the center, smooth the fabric toward the sides, top and bottom edges, pinning as you progress. Trim the top and side edges, providing for 1" seam allowances; trim bottom edge, leaving a 2" seam allowance.

8. Cushion

   Placing lengthwise grain as shown, center and pin fabric on cushion top. Cut, leaving 1" seam allowances. Cut an identical piece for the cushion bottom; in in place. Cut and fit boxing pieces; allow for two placket seam allowances a center of piece to contain zipper. Trim edges to 1" seam allowances.

9. At Each Leg

   After checking to see that all sides of the slipcover fit and are pulled taut, re-pin the entire bottom edge of the slipcover. At each leg, trim away fabric, leaving 1/2" seam diagonally into corners of top seam allowance, being careful not to clip beyond seamline.

10. After the slipcover has been fitted and pinned, mark the seamlines by spreading seam allowances open and running chalk down he seamlines. Every 3" to 4", make a mark perpendicular to seamline to serve as matching points like notches in a a ready-made pattern. It may also be useful to label each section with chalk or by writing it's name on paper and taping it to the section itself.

11. It's best to sew your slipcover is one piece at a time. Remove a unit from the furniture and unpin the pieces. Lay them out flat and trim the seam allowances even. Stitch the unit together and put it back in place to be sure that it fits the furniture and the adjoining units. Then remove, stitch, and check the next unit.

12. Cording

    To cover your cording, cut continuous bias strips, then cover the cord. For all stitching, use needle, thread, and stitch length suitable to the fabric. Shorten the stitch length around corners and curves. It's best to apply the cording to the half of the seam that needs control and then staystitch the other seamline. For example, apply the cording to larger sections instead of smaller, and cord the gathered seamline instead of the ungathered. Clip and notch the seam allowances as needed to fit around curves. When cording ends meet, trim cord to meet exactly and trim fabric to 1/2" overlapping. Fold under 1/4" of fabric of the end that will be visible and put the covered cord end inside the visible cord end, making a loop around the cushion. Stitch across both ends to 1/2" beyond the point where stitching was started; backstitch.

    Form plain seams where seams will not be corded. Clip and notch seam allowances where necessary. Press all seams open and seam-finish as needed. Leave the placket seam of the slipcover open for the zipper.

13. Zippers

    On a chair cover, the zipper is usually applied to a side back seam; on a sofa, to one or both side back seams. If the sofa will stand against a wall, the zipper can be installed in one or two of the lengthwise seams between slipcover sections. A zipper should span at least 3/4s of the seam and should end at the furniture bottom edge. Open zipper; with face down and top stop 1" above bottom seamline, place teeth along stitching that holds cording. Stitch. Turn back corded edge; close zipper. Turn under and abut other placket edge to cording; stitch other zipper half to this edge.

    The zipper for a cushion cover should be at the back of the boxing unit, and should be long enough to go across the back and around at least one corner. It should be inserted in a part of the boxing before the boxing unit is formed. Usually, a zipper in a cushion should be applied by the center method to a part of the boxing. Entire boxing unit is then formed and sttached to cover pieces.

    For reinforcement, tape the seams at the ends of any zipper placket.

14. When the slipcover is completely sewed, try it on the furniture to check the fit and to mark the bottom seamline. Once the bottom seamline has been marked, pin the cording in place along markings (refer to Step 9 about cutting around the legs). Sew cording to the slipcover. For each side of the cover, cut a facing that will be, with outer edges finished, the length of the side from leg to leg, and 3" wide. Finish edges; apply facing to slipcover. Clip into seam allowances at each end of facings. Trim and notch seam allowances; understitch the seamlines. Turn unfaced parts of seams to inside; whipstitch in place.

15. Securing Bottom Edge of Slipcover

    The finished slipcover can be held in place with snap or nylon tape. Sew one half of the fastener to the wrong side of the facings; align and tack the other half to the frame.

16. Apply your final product to you furniture piece, wipe the sweat from your brow and have a nice rest on your newly finished custom-made slipcover!

Tips & Warnings

• It is really handy to brush up on your basic sewing knowledge before you start this project.

• Read through your sewing machine's owners manual in case there is anything about your machine you don't know about like changing needles or stitchlength.

• I will be adding pictures and refining these steps once I actually sew the cover myself. Didn't have time to complete the sewing AND write the article. Coming soon!

• Do not under-estimate fabric needed! You can't uncut it!

• Read this entire article before proceeding! If there is anything you don't understand, study up on it before you get started.

Resources

• JoAnn Fabric and Craft Stores